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Scotch whisky’s boom: industry viewpoint

March 11, 2013 in Interviews

There can be little doubt that the Scotch whisky world is experiencing a boom at the moment. A recent study from the Scotch Whisky Association suggested it contributed £4.2 billion to the Scottish economy in 2012 and saw production levels reach their highest point ever.

And this trend looks set to continue. At a recent conference I attended, new research conducted by International Wine and Spirit Research (IWSR) for the Vinexpo Conference (a yearly wine and spirits event in Bordeaux) predicted global consumption levels are likely to rise 12% from 2012 to 2016. This rate is nearly more than any other main spirit category with Cognac the only other high-growth product (with expected rises of 12.22%). Baijiu (a white spirit made in China) is predicted to grow further but with that increase mostly limited to domestic markets, it is Scotch that will be taking centre stage globally.

So, what will this mean for the Scotch industry?

According to whisky writer Ian Buxton, this growth further points to a new ‘golden age’ for Scotch.

“Over the long term, whisky has a history of boom and bust. This feels different, however, as the potential growth is spread over many more markets and a new generation of consumers are transforming whisky’s image to something contemporary and fashionable,” he commented.

However, the figure of 12% growth wasn’t necessarily on the money, he said.

“If anything, the forecast seems conservative – but I would be sceptical about any five-year forecast taken to two decimal points.”

Glenfarclas Distillery

George Grant, Brand Ambassador and future heir to family-owned Glenfarclas whisky, agreed with Ian.

“We have seen it growing between 15% and 25% per year for the last five years already,” he said.

But what can all this major growth mean for a product that needs time to mature and make?

According to George: “Twelve per cent growth over the next five years is certainly going to scare some companies who are already running at full production and cannot squeeze anything else out,” he said.

Jura Whisky DistilleryA spokesperson for Whyte & Mackay agreed there will be challenges in keeping up with that demand.

“Whisky isn’t an instantaneous product, by its very nature it needs at least three years to mature in cask and whilst the craft and care that goes into whisky is one of its most redeeming selling features, it does mean that stock levels need to be very carefully managed. More demand will equal the need for more whisky and I expect that we will start to see more distillers running 24/7 production to keep up,” she said.

On the positive side, Diageo’s head of whisky outreach, Dr Nick Morgan, said this will mean more money is invested into the industry. Pointing to the £1 billion planned for increased capacity at their distilleries and the building of new sites, he said this shows the company’s confidence in the industry’s potential.

“If you’re investing in production the way we have been for the past five years, we’re talking about a belief in sustained growth for the next five, 10, 15 or 20 years,” he said.

But it won’t just be about keeping up with demand. Focusing on continuing to create a quality product will be paramount as well, suggested George.Talisker Distillery

“One negative thing has to be a quality issue: it is all well and good being able to produce more spirit, but there is only a finite amount of good casks out there to mature the whisky in, so something has to give. This is not an issue for Glenfarclas but I can foresee it being an issue for companies that were struggling to get wood last year – if they have to find an increased 12% then wood that would normally be scrapped will be getting reused,” he explained.

It could also mean a shift in what whiskies we see hitting our shelves, according to Whyte & Mackay.

“For the foreseeable future, I believe non age statement products will come into fruition. We have already seen many companies move towards this and I believe it can only be a good thing for the industry as it gives the master blender more freedom to create different flavours and finishes without being restricted by age,” she said.

Cara Laing, a spokesperson for Morrison Bowmore Distillers, agreed that there is generally a positive viewpoint towards the category.

“It’s great to see new consumers from both the UK and the emerging markets exploring the whisky category and enjoying the spirit. The potential negative is stock restrictions and in turn potential price increases,” she explained.

Casks at Balblair

And what of price? Will this continued increase in demand and squeeze on supply mean the average consumer will be unable to access the bottles being produced?

According to Ian, there are various factors that will help keep prices down.

“We shouldn’t forget that the overwhelming majority of Scotch whisky (more than 90%) is consumed as relatively young blends and competition will keep prices in check,” he said.

Going forward, Nick concluded the positive points far outweigh any negative points for either the consumer or the industry.

“This is hugely good news for Scotland and communities where all whisky producers make whisky – we’re all absolutely knitted into the fabric of Scotland and I think all local economies will benefit from this growth. It’s something I am very passionate about. This is not generally a good story, this is a good story.”

 

 

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Return of whisky Monkey business

March 1, 2013 in Events, Interviews

I am a big fan of seeing whisky celebrated in less than traditional environments. Goodbye fireplace, hello warehouse!

In 2012, one of the companies that really stood out in its ability to liven up this spirits category was blended brand Monkey Shoulder with its For One Night Only and Monkey Shoulder Social Club events. I didn’t manage to make them all, but those I did get to – such as the event where they attempted to recreate New York inside a warehouse and another where both the bingo and the cocktails got rebellious – were all rather grand fun and exposed whisky to a young, trendy, quirky set of consumers.

I recently managed to get the company’s hyperactive, highly busy global brand ambassador – Dean Callan – to sit still for five minutes to tell me what plans are in store for 2013, and I can reveal it is sure to be as exciting as last year.

The first For One Night Only event to kick off the season on the 21 March with the Malt Jockey themed evening. The location is still a secret, but guests (who win tickets by entering a draw or buying them through the website at a cost of £15) will be able to race remote control horses around a giant hay bale, learn to make Monkey Shoulder cocktails and eat food from the delicious Street Kitchen. More FONO events will be announced as the year goes on.

Dean told me that the reason the events have returned is because they are a way to showcase Scotch to a different consumer group.

“The key thing we were trying to achieve is making Scotch approachable, to show that you can have some fun and say you don’t have to sit in front of a fire sipping it at cask strength – it’s not all serious,” he said.

While some people in the whisky world may not agree with making the sacred drink into an irreverent spectacle, Dean said that once he explains to naysayers what the brand is trying to achieve, they normally understand things a lot better.

“In most cases, it’s straight down to a bit of confusion as to what Monkey Shoulder is about,” he added.

But for a vast number of people, the company is making waves. This is especially true in the US bartending scene and becoming more so here in the UK, something Dean said he hopes to increase with the appointment of a UK brand ambassador.

“I want to make it my business to get him or her as involved in the Scotch whisky industry as possible,” he said.

This year the company will also launch BBQ bootcamps in London on the 22 and 29 June. For two sessions, guests will learn how to butcher and cook different cuts of meat, and get the chance to try their hand at cocktail concoction.

For One Night Only Monkey Shoulder“I think the BBQ bootcamp is going to be amazing. We tend to throw things out there; if it’s super successful we might scale it up,” explained Dean.

The company will also be showing its face at various music festivals across the UK this summer to reach a broader audience.

And the biggest challenge for Monkey Shoulder over the coming 12 months? According to Dean, it’ll be around keeping up with demand.

“Monkey, in some areas, is flying off the shelves and we can’t produce enough of it to supply demand so we have to make the right decisions to keep everyone happy – it’s a problem facing a lot of the whisky brands. We’re a small team and it seems to be growing at a fast pace so the challenge will be about keeping the small independent spirit and scaling up at the same time,” he concluded.

For more information about Monkey Shoulder’s events, visit: www.monkeyshoulder.com/foronenightonly

 

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Lady of the Glen Single Cask Whisky

February 1, 2013 in Reviews

Recently, I wrote about a new independent single cask whisky company on the block called Lady of the Glen, which you can read all about here.

In short, the company was started by Gregor Hannah (who is also a bagpiper) in Fife. He will be bottling only single cask whiskies and currently has two to offer in his range: a 24-year old Invergordon and a 14-year old Benrinnes.

As I have written about before, I am a big fan of single cask whiskies (or, at least the ones I am familiar with) and normally experience them through the Scotch Malt Whisky Society. I was, therefore, intrigued to learn of a young whisky aficionado who had spent three years setting up his own single cask bottling company.

I have tried both of his first whisky releases and here are my thoughts on each.

Invergordon: 24-year old: 56%:

(c): Golden mustard

(n): To start, there was LOADS of vanilla and cream, akin to chewy vanilla pods that are desperate to jump right out of the glass. When I added water to help ease that 56% bite, notes of milk chocolate came through in addition.

(p): This was a really spicy whisky without any water (not entirely a surprise) with loads of ginger and lemon flavours. Without water, it wasn’t as multidimensional as I might have expected but it was pleasant. With water, a lovely oiliness came to the surface and there were notes of vanilla, chewy lemon peel and fleshy fruits. It was much easier to handle with water but had a touch of a bitterness that I’m not a massive fan of – but I am really sensitive to any bitter notes, so this will be heightened on my palate.

(f): Without water, this had a thick gingerbread and licorice finish but with water, that heavy flavour eased and more fruity, peach notes came through.

BenRinnes: 14-year-old: 57.8%:

(c): Amber sunset

(n): This was very intriguing – a mix of cherries, a hint of cough syrup, oak, milk chocolate, vanilla, lemon and coconut: a full basket of ripe flavours even without water.

(p): On the palate, it was slightly drying and there was a tiny note of sulphur in there too. It was really fruity with apple, peach, fig and milk chocolate notes. I would never guess it was so strong, as the alcohol burn really didn’t come through in this one. I thought it was delicious but it could be a bit divisive with that touch of sulphur taste lingering in the background.

(f): The finish was all about dried apples. A perfect dessert!

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Chivas cocktail warmth for snowy days

January 22, 2013 in Events

With the freezing weather hitting the UK of late, it inevitably increases the desire that I and (I’d guess) many others have in enjoying an extra dram or two to stay warm.

But, as I’ve discovered lately through my tasting of more blended whiskies, this cold weather does not only have to mean it’s time to do some drammage to your single malt collection. For whisky can be had in many forms – and the form I discovered on a snowy day of late was in using this seductive drink to make delicious cocktails that helped to keep my blood stream moving fast enough to shut out the chills.

On the top floor of China Town’s new Opium Cocktail and Dim Sum Parlour (a fab little joint put together by bar superstar Dre Masso), I joined two of the super cool chaps (Niran from Yin & Yang and Anthony from Ape to Gentleman) for a bit of cocktail masterclassery. Leading the charge was Phil Huckle, UK brand ambassador for Chivas Regal and The Glenlivet.

Over a starter of dim sum, Phil explained a bit about the brand, which dates back to the 1800s. While the bottle has the date 1801 on it, this does not reflect when the company started blending but rather when a luxury grocery store was opened in Aberdeen, the owners of which would go on to make the Chivas Regal blends. Known as the “Harrods of the Highlands” the store was the place to get high-end tea, coffee and foodstuffs in the northern region. In 1841, the store first started supplying Queen Victoria’s Balmoral estate with fine foods for her visits north. The company began making its own blended whiskies in the 1850s. Strathisla distillery in Speyside – which I wrote about, here, after a visit there last year – provides much of the whisky for the blends and the company is now owned by Pernod-Ricard.

It was, according to Phil, around the same time that Chivas started making blends that the golden age of cocktails began – primarily in the US but also in Paris and London. The Chivas blends became popular for use in cocktail making, he told us, and that is an idea that holds through to today.

“I think Chivas is a lot more versatile when it comes to the blends. You can pretty much make any whisky cocktail from it,” he said.

As a Speyside blend, one can understand why – its more delicate flavours fuse with various ingredients in cocktails in an unassuming manner that neither overwhelms the palate nor disappears on it.

After stuffing ourselves on dim sum, we stood back and watched Phil at work as he made six different whisky cocktails from either Chivas 12 or 18.

There were three classics to start: a powerful Rob Roy made with Chivas 12, followed by a Morning Glory Fizz (a delicious hangover cure from the late 19th century, also made with the Chivas 12) and the Blood & Sand made with Chivas 18, which dates back to 1923. All were delectable, but my favourite was the final one. Made from a combination of whisky, fresh orange juice, sweet vermouth (in this case, Antica Formula) and cherry Heering, the Blood & Sand is just the right side of sweet while still be refreshing and powerful. Named after the film of the same title starring silent film heartthrob, Rudolph Valentino, this cocktail is sure to get you feeling fresh and feisty, even when the temperature drops below freezing.

These were followed by three modern cocktails – the Regal Roy, Highland Cosmo and Gallantry. My favourite? The Highland Cosmo. While I normally shy away from the cocktail made famous by Sex & the City, I was drawn to this version because the Chivas 18 made it much richer with loads of thick texture.

So, how can you make these drinks at home if you’re feeling a bit too cold for comfort?

The recipes are as follows:

Blood & Sand:

25ml Chivas 18
25ml fresh OJ
25ml sweet Vermouth
25ml Cherry Heering
Orange twist

Combine the ingredients in an ice filled cocktail shaker and shake well. Strain in cocktail glass and serve.

Highland Cosmo:

40ml Chivas 18
20ml Chambord
40ml Cranberry
15ml fresh lime juice
Dash orange bitters

Combine the ingredients in an ice-filled cocktail shaker and shake well. Strain into cocktail glass and serve.

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Back to Blends: Ballantine’s Range

January 10, 2013 in Uncategorized

Over the past year, I have had many opportunities to experience a range of single malt whiskies, the chance for which I feel very privileged.

However, it has also been a year where blends have not featured as heavily in my tasting experiences as I may have originally planned.

While I love a good single malt, I have no major issues with blends. It’s true that poor quality blends can put off new whisky drinkers if they are too harsh, unbalanced or lacking in anything exciting. But it is equally true that – just like grain whiskies, which I often enjoy – blends can get a bad rap.

Companies like Compass Box are looking, well, outside of the box, and helping to make blends of interest again, focusing on the fact this style of whisky can be very well constructed and still take a hell of a lot of work.

Of course, many new whisky drinkers may not come across more boutique companies like Compass Box in the early stages of their whisky journey. This is why I think it’s important to sometimes go back to brands that one can easily find in supermarkets (along with whisky specialists, since some blends are as pricy as single malts) and give them a chance too.

I have recently had the opportunity to try much of the range from Ballantine’s – a blended Scotch that is extremely popular on the continent, if not as much here in the UK.

As background, George Ballantine was a grocer who set up his own shop in Edinburgh in 1827 at the tender age of 18. As his grocery store became more successful, he began to specialise in whisky, bringing in his own stock and amassing great quantities. In 1867, he set up two much larger stores in Edinburgh and Glasgow with son Archibald and, along with continuing to sell other whisky brands, began creating his own range. He died in 1892 but was posthumously awarded a Royal Warrant by Queen Victoria in 1895. The company was eventually acquired by Canadian company Hirim Walker Gooderham & Worts in 1936. It is now a part of the Pernod-Ricard portfolio.

I had not come across much Ballantine’s previous to this tasting so it was almost a complete mystery.

So what did I try?

I’ll start with the Ballantine’s 12-year old. Introduced to the range in 1960, this whisky comes in at 40% and is the colour of golden hay. The nose was sweet, with notes of banana skins, caramel and oak. The palate has an initial sweetness of ripe fruit, apples, vanilla fudge and a dry smoky, spicy note just at the end. The finish is slightly bitter (almost fungal or grassy) but with hardly any alcoholic bite. It was very pleasant and I would suggest a great entry level dram if you can find it, that is, as I’ve not found it to be heavily stocked here in the UK.

Next up I sampled Ballantine’s Finest, which has been on store shelves since 1910 and is the biggest seller in the range. At 40%, it is the colour of straw and has a more delicate nose than the 12-year old, with notes of peach, apricot and, rhubarb and custard sweets. There was also a hint of chalk. The palate was very light, with an apple, toasted grain and butter flavour. The finish was drying at first, before moving into a grassy bitterness and a final dash of apple sauce. It won the Scotch blend of the year in both 2011 and 2012 in Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible and is another stellar example of an entry level blend (price-point wise) since it can be found for less than £20 in most places.

Finally, I sampled the Ballantine’s 17-year old. This is a couple of steps up from the other two, in relation to price, normally coming in at somewhere around the £45 mark. It has been in the collection since 1930 and is a wee bit stronger at 43%. The colour of this whisky was a light golden honeycomb and the nose was sweet at first, with notes of Quality Street strawberries, caramel and honey-roasted peanuts before adding a dash of spice and smoke. I was expecting the palate to be similarly sugary but it hinted instead of sugared lemons, oranges, honey, toffee and peppery spice. The finish was similar to the 12 in that the grassy flavour reappeared for me, but this also had a citrus and spice hint too.

As always with whisky write-ups, this is just my opinion about the Ballantine’s range. I was pleased to get the chance to try them out and remember that blends should not be forgotten despite the sea of single malts that equally please.

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Paul John Whisky: India’s latest single malt

October 17, 2012 in Uncategorized

Ten years ago, one can bet few people (except those very ‘up’ on their whisky) would have expected India to be keen to produce single malt whiskies for the export market. While the country’s population is one of the biggest consumers of whisky in the world, it tends to be for poor to medium quality blended whiskies which are meant for mixing with lots of soda or water and ice.

But with the emergence of Amrut whisky onto the UK scene in 2009, it was clear companies in India were keen to play with the big boys of Scotch. Amrut was the first whisky to be allowed into Europe because of regulations in place around whisky production meant to help protect the practices of the Scotch industry. It was well accepted within the whisky market, showing naysayers that a country as different in climate to Scotland had the ability to produce a good quality dram.

Now, the company – owned by Amrut Distilleries – is not the only single malt player on the scene. It is being joined by Paul John whisky, made by John Distilleries in Goa – the small, south west state famed over here for its eye-caching beaches and tourism draw rather than whisky. The company is a giant on the Indian spirits market – making the third largest brand of blended whisky in the country called Original Choice.

I went to the company’s official launch in London recently to find out a bit more about the whisky. I had been lucky enough to try a small dram of it at The Whisky Exchange’s dinner in September at Bombay Brasserie. However, I had – then – tried it blind, in a big room of chatty people and I didn’t have the time to really discover it. As such, I was keen to re-taste it to see what emerged.

Michael John, the master distiller

John Distillers has been making blended whisky since 1992, but decided to try out single malt in 2008 to help enter the premium end of the market. Distiller Michael John has chosen to use Indian ingredients to keep it true to its country of origin (although, a second release from the company will be peated and use peat from Scotland). The wash he creates also differs from more traditional whisky by coming out at 5%, compared to a more standard 8% – this is said to help create a sweeter flavour in the final product. Interestingly, it is put in the casks at 55% but because of the heat the alcohol actually goes up in strength as it ages, leaving the final product at 57% – very odd, indeed! This heat causes the whisky to evaporate more quickly – the angels in India must be very happy as they get between 10-12% of the cask’s fill every year. This means, after only three years, a hogshead has 150 bottles left in it (compared to around 350 in a Scottish equivalent).

Now, I know what you’re thinking – far less stock of a whisky made on the other side of the world…it will almost certainly be very expensive. That was my first impression as well. Which is why I was most intrigued by the fact the first release from the company – the Paul John Single Cask 161 – of which there are only 150 cask strength bottles, is being sold through distributor The Whisky Exchange, for £60.  All around – it’s not bad.

But how does it taste?

On the first nosing, the whisky was an instant hit of sweetness – but a fresh sweetness rather than cloying. On further examinations, I picked up salted caramels, honey and orange blossom notes. On the palate, the whisky was thick and beautifully oily, making it a heavy treat in the mouth. That orange nose came through for me in the mouth and was joined by banana and toffee, before finishing on cherries and cream. It was an easily drinkable whisky and would make a perfect substitute for pudding!

Jim Murray gave this whisky 94.5 points in his Whisky Bible and I have little doubt it will be sold out quickly enough at The Whisky Exchange. If you do get a chance to pop by the shop, see if you can try some or pick up a bottle. For a single cask with limited bottles from a good distillery, the price is very good. And, it might just open your eyes up to yet another country producing great drams.

 

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Too precious to touch: Glenlivet 70

September 25, 2012 in Uncategorized

I’m not a great fan of ‘collecting’ whiskies – of leaving them be, of putting them on a shelf, or hiding them in a dark space, unopened. Some people do this to one day make a profit out of those whiskies left unopened, some to preserve large whisky collections.  While the former is, no doubt, a shrewd business/investment decision, I’ve never been that ‘up’ on my financial sensibility – I went into journalism, not for the money, but for the love of it. And, call me crazy but I much prefer the idea of cracking open a bottle and sharing it amongst friends and family, telling stories and making memories, than leaving it to gather dust.

However, every once in a while something comes along that seems too precious to touch – at least without some forethought. This is the situation I find myself in now.

The other day I arrived home after a few days away to find a rather intriguing looking box waiting for me. Inside was an extraordinarily exciting parcel – a wee teeny sample of the Glenlivet 70 year old. That’s right – 70 year old!

Bottled by Gordon & MacPhail this whisky was put into a cask in 1940, just months after one of the most devastating wars in our history was declared. Times were ever so different then – who, in 1940, would have thought I’d be able to communicate my thoughts and words with people around the world instantly, when all anyone cared about was how long war might persist and what its outcome might be.

To think back, it’s amazing this whisky has even survived here in the UK. After all, the amount of whisky being made and bottled in the 1940s dropped dramatically, due to rationing of barley used in its creation and the shipment to the US of large quantities of stock to make up for the money being spent on US-made war supplies.

The last few bottles of the whisky are now being released as a part of the Generations Collection from Gordon & MacPhail. Based around the company’s long history of family ownership (the grandchildren of original partner, John Urquhart, are instrumental in the business today) the Generations collection was started with the release in 2010 of a 70 year old Mortlach, distilled in 1938. In early 2011, the first bottles of this cask strength (45.9%) Glenlivet 70 year old were released to market. This second release of the remaining 100 70cl, silver stoppered decanters are now being sold at Vancouver International Airport’s new World Duty Free with an estimated price tag of $35,888 (Canadian).


As for my sample? I can’t currently bring myself to open it. I know I will one day soon and I will write about it on here when I do. But, equally, I want to be in the right frame of mind when I finally bring myself to taste a few drops of 70 years of history. It astounds me that this liquid – thought about, nurtured, cared for and conceptualised – so long ago, could find its way to me here in 2012.

But that – as I’ve mentioned before – is the beautiful thing about whisky. Its glorious history is one for us all to revel in – whether that’s over a dram that’s 12 years old or 40 years old. Always remember how amazing it is to have that whisky in your hand, and think about all it’s gone through to get to you. And then, most importantly, enjoy it!

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London’s whisky revival

May 23, 2012 in Uncategorized

The space, locked for now, will open in the autumn.

When The London Distillery Company starts producing whisky this autumn, it will be part-powered by solar panels and use organically produced grains. There will be mobile spirit tanks handcrafted in Germany. And on the mezzanine level, there will be a fold-out wall for lab set up and office space “like a little Japanese house”.

And, while all of these elements make TLDC distinct, it is of course the fact that a new whisky distillery will open its doors in London for the first time in more than 100 years that really helps the company stand out.

Darren Rook – aka: the Whisky Guy – is a well-known figure in the world of whisky. Having worked at the manager of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society in London, appeared on the Village of the Drammed online vodcast, worked with many whisky companies and run a very popular blog, Darren is in a rather laudable position to take up the reins of a new venture. At the age of 30, he’s doing it before many people even know what they want to do with their lives.

“If I didn’t do it, someone else would have. And why not have someone really passionate with the right people on board?” he told me in an exclusive interview.

But it’s not only the constituent parts of the distillery – which will be located in part of a quirky artist and foodie co-op near Battersea – that are unique. Even the funding method was done in a non-traditional way.

In order to raise the capital, Darren turned to new investment structure Crowdcube. The basic premise behind the company is to allow global investors the opportunity to read about and decide on new companies to invest in. By getting lots of little investments, the Crowdcube funding method works in a similar way to Living Social or Groupon (although, with more credibility) – if lots of people invest, the overall individual cost decreases and the company reaches its fundraising goals without having to find one major investor to show the pennies.

“It took me six weeks to raise £100,000,” said Darren. “We were one of the first companies that used it as [at that point] only 180 companies had been funded through it globally.”

The success of it, added Darren, comes from the fact potential investors can speak to the company in question through a forum, which keeps everything in the open and ensures clarity from the start.

After the money was raised, it was time to get a team together. This is still a work in progress, but Darren could tell me that John McDougall, who is one of the only master distillers to have worked in all the regions of Scottish whisky distilling, will be on-board to oversee production and quality control, while newcomer Andrew MacLeod Smith will be taking on research, innovation and education.

*Beetle not included in whisky purchase

There are big plans afoot for the 1,400 square foot distillery, including the launch of a whisky school (London’s first) which will include three-day and one-week courses in the art of distillation, and a cask club, which will allow people to sit down to develop their own bespoke whisky with Andrew. Darren said they also plan to play around with making barrel aged cocktails and, in the summers, will look to produce gins because the whisky will only be made in the winter when the lower air pressure can create a better product.

Importantly, everything they produce, they’ll find a way to use.

“We’re small and whatever we make is not a mistake – it will be an experiment. If it comes out terrible, we’ll present it to people,” he added.

And, at the end of the day, one of most important things to Darren is to revive London’s rich whisky distilling heritage.

“A lot of people don’t realise there was a history here other than for gin. Whisky has a heritage and that was lost because London’s distilleries were bought by the Scots.

“But people want local spirits now.”

To learn about more information on the London Distillery Company as it happens, follow @Londonwhisky on Twitter.

 

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Talking to Talisker

May 19, 2012 in Uncategorized

When Mark Lochhead started in the whisky industry in the late ’80s, the world was a different place. There were no bloggers, like yours truly; no iPhones or Internet; the Berlin Wall still stood; the idea of climate change and a black US president were still light years away. And, single malts were still, well, the small fry.

“When I started, single malts were a very small area. At the time, you had Glenfiddich and a few others,” said Mark, now the distillery manager at Talisker. “And you didn’t have the forecasting you do now. You either had too much or too little. It was very different.”

Mark has been at Talisker for three and a half years, having started at J&B in 1987 as a blending clerk after randomly getting involved.

“It was a very happy accident,” he explained. “I was 21 and I doubled my wages overnight and got a bottle of whisky every month. It didn’t take long until you realised what a great industry it was.”

He worked his way through the ranks as a head of inventory administration, then to learning recipes and blends in the lab. He moved to Clynelish in 2005, before coming to Talisker in 2008. Over that time, he says the dramatic shift in demand for single malts has been incredible.

“There’s a big change in the air. Whisky growth is phenomenal,” he added, during an interview at the distillery.

This was partially started – he believes – during the late ’80s and early ’90s when the tourism industry began to grow and more people began visiting distilleries. Talisker’s visitor centre – which once got 15,000 visitors a year at a push – is now bursting at the seams with 55,000 global guests every year. It is in the midst of an expansion of its visitor centre to keep up with demand without making tour groups too large.


From his office – which overlooks the dramatic Isle of Skye landscape and misty Loch Harport – it’s easy to see what lures visitors to this volcanic, rocky outpost. Skye is magical and, as Mark believes, so is the whisky.

“There is still a wee bit of magic in production,” he said, as he took my partner and I around the distillery.

While Mark is the man to talk to if you want to know about Talisker’s production, he equally admits the beauty in not knowing everything that goes on in the stills as the rich liquid becomes what will later be a quality dram.

Talisker – which uses peated barley from the Black Isles – is the only distillery in Scotland, according to Mark, which has an odd U-bend in its stills, making for a longer “copper conversation” with the wash, which then creates the distillery characteristic of a lighter, fruitier flavour, despite its peatiness.

Back in the office over a few drams, Mark told us he considers this the most exciting time for the Scotch industry while equally knowing one musn’t get ahead of oneself.

“You’ve got to appreciate the likes of Japanese whisky, which has really come on. And Irish whiskey has got a big push right now. You have to respect your competitors. We’re [as an industry] particularly proud but we’re not arrogant. But if you rest on your laurels, that could change.”

Over the next two to three years, he says he wants to make sure he keeps up with demand so that “come the time and day, Talisker is ready to be sold.”

Equally, he has ambitions to push the brand higher up in the market.

“I’d like to get it back into the top 10. And, I’m not trying to overtake Glenfiddich or anything. But I want to make consumers admirers of Talisker,” he added.

The hardest market to convince might just be Scotland, which Mark says disappoints him with it lack of appreciation over the product.

“There’s big expansion and all these good news stories are out there. But in Scotland, whisky is taken as something that has always been there. It doesn’t set the heather on fire,” he said.

But, he hopes with all the international attention this boom will last.

“It’s the one thing that’s bucking the [recession] trend. Hopefully the bubble won’t burst. But, the figures come in and they’re consistent and much higher than expected,” he said.

And, unlike the sub-prime mortgage market, at least the Scotch industry is producing something of quality.

“In my 25 years, I’ve very rarely tried something that I thought was not good. Whisky is a very high quality product,” he concluded.

One can only begin to guess what the next 25 years will bring…

 

 

 

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London By Night

March 26, 2012 in Uncategorized

I look out of the window and see the sparkling orange lights of Big Ben slowly inching by, replaced as we descend by images of the Thames flickering with reflections. As Sinatra said: “London by night, is a wonderful sight.” And what could be better than watching it in all its lit-up glory from the glass pod of the London Eye? For me, only one thing: taking it all in with the addition of a glass of whisky in hand.

Photo Credit: National Education Network

Don’t worry – I didn’t try to sneak a flask past security at the gates. Instead, I had the opportunity to experience this with the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, which was running an event with members and non-members on the vast structure on the South Bank. It does this special tasting two times per year (so keep an eye on the website for future ones). Sequestering off a pod specifically for the tasting, the Society brings with it four types of whisky to try during two rotations of the Eye. The session was led by the knowledgeable and friendly Chris (who you’ll often see behind the bar at Greville Street). And, other than having an odd feeling of vertigo while looking out onto the romantic scene after a couple of drams, it is certainly one of the coolest places I’ve ever tasted whisky.

So, what did we try and what did I like? The rundown is below, but one note first – the SMWS bottles only single cask, cask strength whiskies. To try them, you need to be a member (which costs £100 per year) or a guest of one. I have tried some amazing ones of late, a couple of which are below.

Whisky #1:

Bottle number: 35.59.

Society Name: Arabian Nights

Distillery: Glen Moray

Age: 39 years

Only 74 bottles of this were made available. It is an intriguing dram which I found to have hints of pineapple, musty mould and a slight smoke on the nose. There was dried banana and pineapple, along with raisins on the palate. Mid-sip, the whisky opened up beautifully along my mid-palate, producing a richer hint of sweet, cigar smoke. Most people in the pod preferred it with water, but I liked mine neat.

Whisky #2:

Bottle number: 97.21

Society Name: Laurel, Meadowsheet and Honeysuckle

Distillery: Little Mill

Age: 21 years – bottled in 1997

This dram was subtly delicate on the nose – just a whiff of whisky that shot of hints of honey, bitter orange peel and almond through the air. But when tasted, it suddenly burst on the palate. I got flavours of caramel, lemon, biscuits, almond and honeysuckle. A really interesting whisky neat but the agreement was it fell apart slightly with water.

Whisky #3:

Bottle number: 76.85

Society Name: The Antagonist

Distillery: Mortlach

Age: 15 years

This sherried whisky was a nice middle-man for the palate. Melted butter, dates and sugary sweet elements (think: hot browning sugar, treacle, toffee) hit my nose on first sniff. I was surprised, therefore, when I found a load of spice rolling around the back of my palate when I tasted the dram. There was also a hint of soft smoke and treacle. I enjoyed this but found it a bit too sweet for my liking. A good post-meal dram to go with bitter chocolate.

Whisky #4:

Bottle number: 53.158

Society Name: Coal Tar Meets Pork Sausage

Distillery: Caol Ila

Age: 15 years

Any whisky with this name is going to raise some intrigue and some more eyebrows. Who, after all, would want to drink coal, tar and sausage? But, like any whisky – the flavour is in the palate of the beholder. I didn’t manage to resurrect any block notes of pork sausage, but I did get that sharp smoke and sweet flavour of tar, along with hints of the seaside and dusty coal. On the palate, meanwhile, there was the oddest trio of flavours: Deepheat, taragon and mint. Bizarre indeed! Not my favourite but one worth trying if you’re keen to see just how varied “smoky” whiskies can be.

 

 

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