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What I’m Reading: Peat Smoke and Spirit

March 26, 2013 in Whisky Books

Peat Smoke and Spirit novel Andrew Jefford I want to go to Islay.

No, really, I have made it one of my goals for this year.

While many whiskyphiles out there may have already made this journey, it is one that is still on my ‘to-do’ list.

And since starting the meaty but engaging Peat Smoke and Spirit: A Portrait of Islay and Its Whiskies my mind has only been further convinced that I need to hop on a plane (and then a ferry) to visit its lands.

Written by the highly regarded Andrew Jefford, the book chronicles both Islay’s history and the history of each of its distilleries (bar Kilchoman which was not yet established when the book was published in 2004). It is one for – not only whisky lovers – but history lovers too, as Jefford explores the island’s owners, conquerors, warriors and families throughout the generations.

With separate chapters on specific topics such as peat, nature and water, each is discussed deftly and with poetic prose that makes it highly readable. It also inspires envy in those (such as myself) who are yet to visit its shores (bar a brief tour of its airport on my way to Jura last year and a stop-off in Bowmore for a cuppa).

It is clear that Jefford is a story-teller. He interviews people who have lived on the island and worked with its natural resources for decade upon decade, while easily engaging the reader in their individual tales. He speaks of the whisky distilleries in dedicated chapters from all angles (from their location to history, water sources and the characters behind them) and the way he reviews the drams these distilleries produce is hypnotic. Take, for example his description of 12-year old Caol Ila: “Neat, it’s sinewy, leanly smoky and mouth-wateringly clean to finish; add a dash of water and you have a very pure, catwalk-elegant dram in which the long-legged ‘cratur’ strides out across the mouth with an alluring flourish of smoky lemon.” How sexy does that sound?

Chapter on Nature in Peat Smoke and SpiritHe also covers the natural landscape of Islay in a deeply connective way. In the “Nature” chapter, Jefford asks who does the island belong to? Is it the owners, the islanders or nature? He states in his continuation: “Only the most obsessive whisky lover could visit the island and fail to notice that the setting for its seven distinguished distilleries is a magnificent one. Nature frames Caol Ila; nature swaddles Ardbeg; nature invades Bunnahabhain.”

Before I read this book, I knew I needed to make the important pilgrimage to Islay. Since reading it, I am convinced there is no other route.

If you are a whisky lover or someone who just loves a damn interesting read, I recommend adding this title to your shelf. It’s inspiring, at the least.

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An Emporium of Whisky Delights

December 17, 2012 in Uncategorized

Colin Dunn looking spooky as a monk.

It was a perfectly normal Monday night in Shoreditch. A small group of people gathered in a cosy back room and listened to monastic tunes while wisps of dry smoke wafted past our nostrils and Colin Dunn (Diageo brand ambassador) told dark tales of whisky history while dressed as a monk.

Like, I said, perfectly normal.

Or, not, if you aren’t used to strange antics of the cocktail bars that haunt this part of London.

This particular evening was arranged by the Worship Street Whistling Shop – a basement bar with gin-palace style and trendy-oddity based on a darkened, office-filled street near Old Street. It was a part of the bar’s new “Whisky Emporium” designed in partnership with Colin.

I was there as a part of a test group to see how the Emporium’s new whisky installation would work. It is the latest in a series of emporiums for the fantastic little bar – following on from a rum and cocktail one done previously. With me were whisky aficionados Karen and Matt from WhiskyForEveryone and Sunday Times drinks columnist and Imbibe editor, Alice Lascelles.

The Emporium is meant to give patrons a fully sensory experience to learn about the history of one particular spirit – in this case, whisky. The evening is divided into six parts, during which scents are pumped in to match the particular theme of the act, and drinks, food, music and video are added in to hit all of your brain’s intake buttons.

As it was a test night, there were more changes and interruptions than would normally be the case but, regardless, it was bizarre and fantastic. Besides, as Colin put it, “This evening is the acoustic version; we’ll be going electric in January.”

We started with Colin dressed spookily as a monk discussing the origins of whisky, and tried a whisky based punch that used ingredients that would have been around hundreds of years ago – such as mead and hay (that’s right, hay). The nutty, cream, apple and honey drink was paired delightfully with dried vegetable crisps.

In act two, to the background of some Miles Davis and John Lee Hooker jazz, Colin ran us through the history of blending. We were then asked to work together as a group to create our own blend. We were allowed to smell each but not know what whisky it was, instead having to rely on our senses to mix them together. Each whisky was given a name of a Scottish celebrity it reminded the team at Worship Street of. One of my favourites was, “Frankie Boyle: Well-oiled fishing net on fire.” We added some cherry-pie Lorraine Kelly and a bit of Billy Connolly spice, creating a fruity, sweet whisky with a bit of warm pie spices.

By act three, we were all really getting into things. So, when Colin came in as “Cooper Dunn” we listened with glee. My favourite cocktail of the night – a bonkers  twist on a blood and sand made from Cragganmore Portwood, grapefruit and pickle brine, that was part sour, part sweet and part briney salt – was served out of individual flasks and combined with the savory prosciutto and bread, to represent a cooper’s lunch. As we nibbled and drank, Cooper Dunn gave us a rundown of the influence of wood, while a subtle woodsmoke blew through the room to further enhance the impact.


Act four covered regions, with whisky jellies placed in teeny glasses and served on a whisky map, while act five looked at the importance of age and included a succulent oyster topped with a lavender foam and a Talisker 57 North-based cocktail. The final stage saw us through to the future – with a backdrop of images of a bustling, bright city at night and uplifting dance music. Here we were served the most innovative cocktail of the night – in the bottom of a tall glass, a coca-cola flavoured Berocca sat, ready to have a Caol Ila whisky and soda poured on top.

The whole night was slightly Alice in Wonderland – but I wouldn’t expect much less from the team that also runs Purl in Marylebone. While there were some niggles to be worked out (for instance, the need for stronger scents to be pumped through to up that sensory experience) it will inevitably be a sell-out event for the whisky-curious. And a worthwhile one at that. You may never see Monday night in the same way again…!

The Whisky Emporium will run nightly for three months, for groups of at least four at a cost £90 per person. For more information, visit: www.whistlingshop.co.uk

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A smoky dram for a cold night

December 5, 2012 in Uncategorized

I always relish trying a whisky which I’ve heard about for ages but not been able to get my hands on.

So, during a recent whisky tasting on a cold winter’s night at the newly refurbished Caledonian hotel in Edinburgh, I was very pleased when Ben Walker – the bar manager – brought out Smokehead Extra Black 18 year old as part of the trio my other half and I were to sample that night.

I’d heard about the Smokehead bottlings and even seen them on whisky shop shelves but – being a person who likes to try whisky before committing myself to a full bottle – hadn’t decided to settle on it until I knew what was hidden in its dark interior.

The tasting we did that night also included a much lighter Tullibardine 1993 – bottled specially for The Caledonian – and the Dalmore King Alexander III. It took place in the fabulously classic Peacock Alley – a train era style dining and bar lounge, dedicated to quiet opulence and creamy beige furnishings. If you’re up in Edinburgh anytime soon, I recommend popping by (even if only for a tea) just to take in its lovely surroundings.

Ben started us out on the Tullibardine to get our palates warmed up and told us stories of how he got involved in the whisky world. Despite spending much of his childhood in Spain, he considers himself truly Scottish at heart, since his grandfather sat on the board of 30 distilleries. He later went to a boarding school near Benromach and would often escape to take in the smells of the distillery. Two years ago, he came fourth in the Glenfiddich Malt Mastermind competition and also designed a “whisky bible” for the hotel – which used to have nearly 400 whiskies on its shelves. Since the revamp that number has dropped to around 125, but Ben is evidently passionate about getting anyone and everyone into whisky, telling us he’s been known to convert non-whisky drinkers into lovers of a dram in under 15 minutes.

As we listened to his tales, we also enjoyed the Tullibardine. While I loved the tropical fruit heavy nose, it was a bit too dainty for my palate, finishing quickly and leaving little evidence of its existence. Ben said he considered it a great summertime dram and I agreed – it’s one for hotter days when you just want something gentle to enjoy with a salad or fish dish.

Next up was the Dalmore King Alexander III. I’ve tried this one before and, while I enjoyed it then, don’t remember it standing out as a favourite. On this try, I liked the thick, orange, apricot and chocolate nose, and found the orange, cigar and wood palate to be pleasing but it didn’t shout excitedly out at me. I found the finish too short and without the “oomph” I like in a whisky on a cold winter’s night. My other half liked it, however, finding the balance enjoyable – still, it was his third favourite of the night too.

And finally, we got to the one I was most interested in – Smokehead Extra Black 18. This whisky was launched in 2009 and follows up from the 2006 release of the first Smokehead. There are 6,000 bottles released annually. It comes in a black bottle with contemporary silver writing, making it stand out in comparison to the other bottles on any whisky shelf. It is bottled by Ian McLeod distillers but the origins of the whisky are not revealed. I’ve heard talk it is an Ardbeg, and others have said it might be a Caol Ila. Ben told me he has heard rumour it is actually not from Islay but from the Isle of Arran distillery.

Regardless of its origins, it is definitely one to try. On the nose, there is a huge waft of peat that is balanced out by lemon peel, passion fruit and rosemary notes. Then, in the mouth, it really explodes – it’s deliciously creamy (hinting almost at butter), with a hefty smoke that is tempered by a sticky fruit and vanilla pod sweetness that bursts mid-sip. It’s got a great, oily finish that clings to the roof of the mouth and the flavour goes on and on long after you swallow. Best of all for me, my other half – who is normally adverse to smoky whisky – really took to this one, likely because it’s not all smoke, all the time. It’s a really interesting dram and I’m ever so glad to have tried it.

Thank you to The Caledonian hotel for inviting us to sample whisky and to Ben for his expertise. For more information on the hotel and its bars, visit: www.thecaledonianedinburgh.com

 

 

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Martine Nouet speaks to Miss Whisky

November 23, 2012 in Whisky Women

 

In my latest Whisky Women interview, I speak to Martine Nouet, a celebrated food and whisky writer and chef, and former editor of Whisky Magazine France.

In the full interview, here, she speaks of her determination to write about whisky, why she doesn’t believe in positive discrimination to get more women into the industry and her favourite memory of whisky drinking, shared on a beach with whisky writer Michael Jackson.

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From Dalwhinnie to Lagavulin: Diageo drams

June 6, 2012 in Uncategorized

Miss Whisky has a confession. She received some rather grand samples a little while back from the Diageo group, proceeded to diligently do notes on them and, then, misplaced all those notes. Having drunk the samples, there was little she could do to rectify the situation.

Until…

…she unearthed the missing notebook!

As such, here are four reviews of some interesting drams to get you salivating this weekend…

 

Dalwhinnie Distillers Edition, 18-year old, 1992: 43%

This special release is double matured, finishing itself off in rich Oloroso sherry casks. Its colour is like amber sunshine, akin to that found in the tint of sunshine on a beach, reflected through sunglasses.

On the nose, I got hints of wheat, hay, a touch of mould, leather and aspartame, while the palate provided me with flavours of citrus, grass, silage and sweet lychees. While it was quite gentle to begin with and wasn’t overly rich (despite that extra sherry maturation) I found it had this pervasive bitterness right at the back of my tongue, which I didn’t love. I enjoyed it at first but the bitterness I picked up put me off.

This bottle retails around the £48 mark.

 

Clynelish Distillers Edition, 1993, 17-year old: 46%

With a colour of honeyed hay in the summer sun, this dram was instantly appealing to me. Another Oloroso finished whisky, I got hints of sour cherries, sea salt Green & Blacks chocolate and fudge on the nose. The palate was richer than the Dalwhinnie, with more of a classic sweet burst mid-palate after it was held in the mouth for a few seconds. It had a sour/smoky aftertaste that dissipated very quickly. Adding water brought out a slightly bitter orange flavour for me. I found it more complex and alluring than the first dram.

You can find this retailing at around £52 a bottle.

 

Caol Ila Distillers Edition, 1997, 13-year old: 43%

This butterscotch coloured dram has the rather odd distinction of being finished in a Moscatel sherry cask – not something one comes across very often (at least in my experience).

Touches of creamy smoke, along with walnut rinds, almonds and lemongrass make this a sensually appealing whisky on the nose.

The palate is perfectly rounded: sugared, pine smoke; sour spring grass; grapefruit; and, nutmeg linger in the mouth. Then comes a finish that keeps working until, a minute after it’s gone, you get a bitter bite that caps the experience off right at the back of the throat. It’s lovely.

It retails for around £47.

 

Lagavulin Distillers Edition, 1994, 16-year old: 43%

Rusty orange and Cognac coloured, this whisky is finished in Pedro Ximenez casks.

On the nose, there are more traditional notes of chocolate, gooey raisins, sherry wood, toffee and oranges.

The mouth meanwhile is bursting with sweet floral and honey notes that avoid being sickly because of that lovely pervading smoke. Hold the dram in your mouth for 30 seconds, and suddenly lemon-lime meringue and orange peel enter the theatrical performance bouncing about the palate. With a light, lemony finish, this is a beautiful whisky and my favourite of the four.

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London By Night

March 26, 2012 in Uncategorized

I look out of the window and see the sparkling orange lights of Big Ben slowly inching by, replaced as we descend by images of the Thames flickering with reflections. As Sinatra said: “London by night, is a wonderful sight.” And what could be better than watching it in all its lit-up glory from the glass pod of the London Eye? For me, only one thing: taking it all in with the addition of a glass of whisky in hand.

Photo Credit: National Education Network

Don’t worry – I didn’t try to sneak a flask past security at the gates. Instead, I had the opportunity to experience this with the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, which was running an event with members and non-members on the vast structure on the South Bank. It does this special tasting two times per year (so keep an eye on the website for future ones). Sequestering off a pod specifically for the tasting, the Society brings with it four types of whisky to try during two rotations of the Eye. The session was led by the knowledgeable and friendly Chris (who you’ll often see behind the bar at Greville Street). And, other than having an odd feeling of vertigo while looking out onto the romantic scene after a couple of drams, it is certainly one of the coolest places I’ve ever tasted whisky.

So, what did we try and what did I like? The rundown is below, but one note first – the SMWS bottles only single cask, cask strength whiskies. To try them, you need to be a member (which costs £100 per year) or a guest of one. I have tried some amazing ones of late, a couple of which are below.

Whisky #1:

Bottle number: 35.59.

Society Name: Arabian Nights

Distillery: Glen Moray

Age: 39 years

Only 74 bottles of this were made available. It is an intriguing dram which I found to have hints of pineapple, musty mould and a slight smoke on the nose. There was dried banana and pineapple, along with raisins on the palate. Mid-sip, the whisky opened up beautifully along my mid-palate, producing a richer hint of sweet, cigar smoke. Most people in the pod preferred it with water, but I liked mine neat.

Whisky #2:

Bottle number: 97.21

Society Name: Laurel, Meadowsheet and Honeysuckle

Distillery: Little Mill

Age: 21 years – bottled in 1997

This dram was subtly delicate on the nose – just a whiff of whisky that shot of hints of honey, bitter orange peel and almond through the air. But when tasted, it suddenly burst on the palate. I got flavours of caramel, lemon, biscuits, almond and honeysuckle. A really interesting whisky neat but the agreement was it fell apart slightly with water.

Whisky #3:

Bottle number: 76.85

Society Name: The Antagonist

Distillery: Mortlach

Age: 15 years

This sherried whisky was a nice middle-man for the palate. Melted butter, dates and sugary sweet elements (think: hot browning sugar, treacle, toffee) hit my nose on first sniff. I was surprised, therefore, when I found a load of spice rolling around the back of my palate when I tasted the dram. There was also a hint of soft smoke and treacle. I enjoyed this but found it a bit too sweet for my liking. A good post-meal dram to go with bitter chocolate.

Whisky #4:

Bottle number: 53.158

Society Name: Coal Tar Meets Pork Sausage

Distillery: Caol Ila

Age: 15 years

Any whisky with this name is going to raise some intrigue and some more eyebrows. Who, after all, would want to drink coal, tar and sausage? But, like any whisky – the flavour is in the palate of the beholder. I didn’t manage to resurrect any block notes of pork sausage, but I did get that sharp smoke and sweet flavour of tar, along with hints of the seaside and dusty coal. On the palate, meanwhile, there was the oddest trio of flavours: Deepheat, taragon and mint. Bizarre indeed! Not my favourite but one worth trying if you’re keen to see just how varied “smoky” whiskies can be.

 

 

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