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Finding Speyside’s Spirit

May 10, 2013 in Events, Reviews

Spirit of Speyside images

It was when I was in the village hall in Aberlour that I really grasped the true meaning of the Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival.

Inside the traditional wood-floored, stained glass windowed hall, dozens of people of all ages gathered together for a ceilidh. White haired ladies and dapper elderly gentleman sat chatting to tourists from Brazil, Canada and America, while a wedding party – dressed up in their finest – created a buzz of happiness felt by all.

At my table, James Walker – the humble and inviting head of the Walker Shortbread family – spoke to me about his memories coming to the hall as a child to watch films with his fellow local school children, while beside me festival organiser Mary Hemsworth spoke to everyone about the success of the many days of events.

As the ceilidh band struck up a tune and the newlyweds (who’d decided to celebrate their wedding evening with the local community) stood to take their first dance, I marveled in the wonderful welcoming nature, the simplicity and friendliness, the true heart of a community that one doesn’t find just anywhere anymore.

This is Scotland to me. And this is Speyside.

Stills MortlachWhile the whisky we love gets its fair dues, it is the people, the beating heartbeat of the Speyside region that make the wonderful product. And it is at the festival of the same name that I had a moment to slow down and see just what makes it such an important spot.

By the time I took a second’s breather to realise all of this, it was already the final night of the festival for me. I’d been in Speyside for four days to take in the yearly event which sees hundreds of distillery tours, parties, ceilidhs and concerts take place in the heart of Scotland’s whisky making world. I’d attended the opening dinner of the festival at The Glenlivet; witnessed the re-opening of Tamdhu distillery and seen well-known TV and newspaper commentator Olly Smith talk about its new 10-year old whisky release; visited The Macallan, Aberlour and Mortlach; danced to the Treacherous Orchestra at Glenfiddich; eaten my way through plates of smoked salmon; and, tried more drams than I can remember.

Glenlivet QuaichBut on that final night, I saw why people keep coming back year after year to the region – it’s because it has a heart and soul that far surpasses just the whisky but which is instilled in each bottle.

Over the coming weeks, I will write about the distilleries and drams I visited and tried, the positives and negatives and the various characters that keep Speyside alive.

On the opening night, I was awarded the honour of International Whisky Ambassador of the Year for the festival in tandem with fellow blogger Keith Savage. I was completely blown away with shock by this honour. I don’t remember entirely what I said in thanks that evening but I know it went down the lines of being so proud to be able to talk about such a wonderful area not just because of the whisky but because of the people, because the region embodies a similar spirit to that which I grew up in Canada with.

I hope when you open your next bottle of Speyside whisky or if you get the chance to head up to the region to meet the people behind the spirit, you too get the chance to witness the conviviality of it all. I may be a Canadian, living in England, but there will always be a little part of me that feels Scottish. The festival simply cemented that for me.

The whisky pastor of Texas

April 25, 2013 in Interviews

Wearing dusty green trousers, ruby red cowboy boots and braces over a blue jean shirt, Balcones founder and head distiller Chip Tate addresses a room of captivated listeners. The way he speaks – clearly, logically with power and perfect emphasis – one could mistake him for a pastor, if it weren’t for the outfit.

And, if the fates had been different, Chip could have ended up proselytising about God instead of whisky. Having done a post-grad in Divinity, it was once a possible path in his life.

The way things have gone, however, means he’s now spreading the good word of the dram, rather than that of the Bible. The fact he’s named one of his products Brimstone and another Resurrection may be of note.

Chip is one of those people you can speak with for hours. In fact, my interview with the maker of the only single malt whisky in Texas went so quickly I lost track of time and found myself blurting out a list of questions we’d not gotten to in our hour long chat.

During that time we discussed not only whisky but life, work and the fates, transitioning from one topic to the other as seamlessly as one sip of a good whisky goes down after the next.

But let’s rewind to the beginning of the bottle. As background, Chip started Balcones in 2008. Five years later, with seven products on the market, it’s becoming a bit of a cult whisky producer, with those who love what he’s doing and those who are slightly perplexed (ask people about Brimstone, for instance, and you’ll get a varied response).

Chip had a varied life path. He studied physics and philosophy as an undergrad, then moved onto divinity in his post-grad. He’s worked in engineering, as an assistant dean for undergraduate enrollment and started a tech company. In between, he managed to study brewing and distilling, which first piqued his interest in this field.

While brewing was on the back of his mind since 2000, his life took him to these different roles. In the midst of his first marriage breaking up, he concluded he had to make a change.

“I realised it was fine working hard on something but that what I was working at wasn’t my first love. I realised it was time to press the reset button because in 20 years time I might wake up and wonder where the hell I was,” he said.

With the thought of brewing already in his mind, he decided to take things to the next step and look at building a distillery, plunging himself feet first into the project and building the distillery in Waco, Texas, from scratch on a rather, shall we say, limited budget.

“Looking back I was crazy. We had $100,000 to do everything, for building, for the equipment, for the land; I’d never even welded before. As much as I realised it was a gutsy move it’s like a lot of things in life: you look back and only then do you realise how gutsy it was,” he explained.

During the building, Chip not only learned to weld and constructed his final stills by hand, but began deeply studying the intricate ins and outs of whisky making. Part of that came during an internship at Bruichladdich under the tutelage of Jim McEwan, and part of it came from an insatiable desire to learn intricate details of everything, something he no doubt picked up from his nuclear engineer father and encouraging mother during his childhood in Virginia.

For instance, on the topic of why he loves baking (which helped him form a love of yeast and therefore brewing) he said: “My poor mother. It all started when she wanted to teach me to not be useless in the kitchen because my father was. I then became slightly obsessed with bread making. So I did a lot of baking before brewing because it’s all about technique, technique, technique.”

And while Chip said he recognises now how crazy his initial idea was, he said he didn’t want to take the bigger risk of not trying.

“I’ve never met someone who’s taken a shot at something and, even if they’ve failed, actually regretted at least trying,” he said.

But, he added that it has not been an easy route to success.

“There were times when we were down to $300 in the chequing account. It’s really fricken hard building an independent distillery,” said Chip. “But I don’t want to sound too surprised because I’m betting my family’s future on it.”

And while things are on the up (including, outside of the whisky distilling the fact he’s become a father in the past year as well), it doesn’t mean it’s all smooth sailing now he’s more established. In fact, it’s hard to imagine how he can have such a calm exterior when he speaks of it.

“We’re often chasing our tails trying to manage. There’s a little bit of a triage aspect to it all. We still hand carry 1000 pounds of grain to the mash and hand stir it with a two foot paddle. We’re currently at technology from about 1600; we’re not looking into technology from 1875.”

The distillery will be doubling capacity to boost the current output of six thousand litres annually but Chip will still stick to the methods that make it distinctly craft-like, such as using yard aged casks that cost ten times as much as normal ex-bourbon ones and making their whisky with corn.

As the fates would have it, Chip chose a good time to get involved in craft distilling, which has helped lead the company to win 47 international awards for the various products such as Balcones True Blue, Baby Blue, Brimstone and Resurrection.

“I was aware of what was going on in craft distilling and that I was surfing this wave, but I was fortunate that all the various fates brought me to the moment I launched, which was also a good moment for craft distilling,” he added.

And what the distilling fates will bring, Chip of course does not yet know. But in the meantime he will keep spreading the riveting word of what he does to all who will listen. And, of course, do a little bit of celebrating, which is currently being bottled in the form of Balcones 5th Anniversary edition.

“Part of it is a celebration of where we’ve come from and a celebration for surviving, but also a promise of what’s to come,” he concluded.

The Balcones 5th Anniversary edition will be available on an extremely limited basis. For more information about pricing and release date, contact Emily Harris on emily.harris@mayfox.co.uk or Amanda Ludlow at the Great Whisky Company on amanda@greatwhisky.co.uk.

For more information about Balcones, check out this post I wrote here or visit the website here.

2003 Glenfarclas Family Cask: Nickolls & Perks

April 22, 2013 in Reviews

The Glenfarclas distillery in Speyside is a great favourite of mine, as are the malts it produces. While I normally shy away from heavily sherried whiskies, for some reason most of the range that this family-owned distillery produce really hit home for me.

I visited last year and managed to try a huge variety in a tasting with George Grant – the company’s brand ambassador and great-great-great grandson of the original owner. My firm favourite has been the 15-year old but the 105 cask strength is also up there.

The company has a large range, including something called The Family Casks, which started out with one bottling of single cask whisky from each year from 1952 to 1994 and now includes seven more releases. If you’re ever in London’s Soho and near The Vintage House, the members’ club upstairs (the Soho Whisky Club) has them all displayed. So, when the folks at specialist wine and spirits merchants Nickolls & Perks told me they had bottled a 2003 selection for their customers, I was keen to give it a try.

This 2003 Glenfarclas was bottled at 57.5% and comes from cask #1448. Here’s what I thought of it:

Glenfarclas Family Cask(C): Melting brown sugar

(N): Almond cake, chewy grainy marzipan, a bit of chocolate and a nice bite because of the higher abv. More orange peel notes come out with water.

(P): A surprising lack of burn on the palate makes for quite a suave whisky. Notes of juicy oranges to start with sherry kick that follows. Mid-sip there is brown sugar and sour plums. With water some bitter notes emerge with addition of dark chocolate, orange and cinnamon.

(F): Woody oranges

This is a lovely bottling from Glenfarclas and while it’s not my favourite (the 15 continues to hold that spot) it is intriguing and very palatable.

For more information on the whisky, including George Grant’s tasting notes and how to order, head here.

 

Michelle Myron speaks to Miss Whisky

April 15, 2013 in Whisky Women

 ”Whisky, especially in the UK, has an image of old men – it’s sad but true. A more even gender balance would benefit the industry as a whole.” – Michelle Myron

 

 

Michelle Myron is a German speaking tour guide at the Glenfiddich distillery in Dufftown. She also runs her own business – Speyside Tours – a part of which takes visitors to the region on walks to see the distillery sites past and present, and teach them about whisky history.

In this Whisky Women interview, Michelle speaks about her earliest memories of whisky, the eeriness of visiting closed distillery sites and why the spirit inspires her.

 

What are your earliest memories of whisky?

My first involvement in the world of whisky was as a child, when I used to go to my uncle’s work. He was a warehouse man at a Dufftown distillery. We would go to his work at the weekend and even then I loved the smell that hits you when you open the warehouse door. The warehouses were a great to play hide & seek in; obviously in those days health & safety wasn’t such an issue!

What inspires you about this spirit?

The history of whisky, how it has evolved, the regional variations, the provenance and the integrity of the product: these are all factors which inspire me and maintain my obsession with whisky!

I also really enjoy it – it is a great pleasure for me to nose and taste whisky and the fact there are so many means that I am always finding new favourites, which change depending on the time of day or occasion.

What was one of the first whiskies you tried and loved?

I was influenced greatly by my dad’s tastes.  Speyside malts were predominant in the house so I believe Macallan was my first dram. Because of the extensive use of sherry casks it was quite sweet and a good one to start with. I still drink Macallan today and feel that it is a good example of an elegant Speyside whisky.

What is your favourite aspect of what you do at the distillery?

Converting the non-whisky drinkers! And introducing visitors to expressions other than the 12-year old is interesting too – it shows the difference time makes but also lets them experience the 15-year old which is the Solera expression.

In the in-depth specialised tours visitors get to see the famous Warehouse 8 and the home of the Glenfiddich Solera Vat – this is a special place for me and feels very magical since Glenfiddich was the first to pioneer the Solera system in whisky production.

Glenfiddich

You also run whisky tours in Speyside. What made you want to do this?

I started Speyside Tours because of an obvious demand. When speaking to visitors at Glenfiddich I realised they would fly into Edinburgh, drive up to Speyside, do Glenfiddich, Loch Ness, Skye and then go back to Edinburgh.  I would say nearly 70% of tourists follow this route, but there is much more to see and do, many attractions off the tourist trail.

Due to my love of whisky I started to offer the Dufftown Distillery walk, which takes you on a “Dramble” around the nine distillery sites of Dufftown, past and present.  We conduct nosing and tastings but also give insights into the history of whisky in Dufftown.  People learn about what life was like for the distillery workers, from the 40s through to the present day and the stories of how workers would get one up on the management, which people love to hear.

What do you enjoy most about doing the whisky walks?

I love meeting people from around the world who have an interest in whisky; I never fail to be impressed by the international interest in our whisky. Personally, I also like when we visit the mothballed Parkmore distillery – it is still so intact and has an eeriness to it, you half expect it to start up production or a warehouse man to come out and tell us to get out of the way. I like also the visit to The Balvenie, to see the maltings there and the smell of peat on a Scottish summer evening, to know this has been done like this for the last 120 years.

Do you think more women should or could work in the whisky industry?

I definitely think more women should enter the whisky industry and at all levels. Whisky, especially in the UK, has an image of old men – it’s sad but true. A more even gender balance would benefit the industry as a whole.

What is your favourite memory involving whisky drinking?

My most cherished memory of drinking whisky is the times doing so at home with family and friends at Hogmany. There are always lots of people in a confined space and a neighbour will come in with bagpipes – very stereotypically Scottish but true.  The noise is deafening in a confined space – more whisky is then required.  There’s lots of arguing over the best whisky but at the same time, we’re all there, enjoying our national drink!

What I’m Reading: Peat Smoke and Spirit

March 26, 2013 in Whisky Books

Peat Smoke and Spirit novel Andrew Jefford I want to go to Islay.

No, really, I have made it one of my goals for this year.

While many whiskyphiles out there may have already made this journey, it is one that is still on my ‘to-do’ list.

And since starting the meaty but engaging Peat Smoke and Spirit: A Portrait of Islay and Its Whiskies my mind has only been further convinced that I need to hop on a plane (and then a ferry) to visit its lands.

Written by the highly regarded Andrew Jefford, the book chronicles both Islay’s history and the history of each of its distilleries (bar Kilchoman which was not yet established when the book was published in 2004). It is one for – not only whisky lovers – but history lovers too, as Jefford explores the island’s owners, conquerors, warriors and families throughout the generations.

With separate chapters on specific topics such as peat, nature and water, each is discussed deftly and with poetic prose that makes it highly readable. It also inspires envy in those (such as myself) who are yet to visit its shores (bar a brief tour of its airport on my way to Jura last year and a stop-off in Bowmore for a cuppa).

It is clear that Jefford is a story-teller. He interviews people who have lived on the island and worked with its natural resources for decade upon decade, while easily engaging the reader in their individual tales. He speaks of the whisky distilleries in dedicated chapters from all angles (from their location to history, water sources and the characters behind them) and the way he reviews the drams these distilleries produce is hypnotic. Take, for example his description of 12-year old Caol Ila: “Neat, it’s sinewy, leanly smoky and mouth-wateringly clean to finish; add a dash of water and you have a very pure, catwalk-elegant dram in which the long-legged ‘cratur’ strides out across the mouth with an alluring flourish of smoky lemon.” How sexy does that sound?

Chapter on Nature in Peat Smoke and SpiritHe also covers the natural landscape of Islay in a deeply connective way. In the “Nature” chapter, Jefford asks who does the island belong to? Is it the owners, the islanders or nature? He states in his continuation: “Only the most obsessive whisky lover could visit the island and fail to notice that the setting for its seven distinguished distilleries is a magnificent one. Nature frames Caol Ila; nature swaddles Ardbeg; nature invades Bunnahabhain.”

Before I read this book, I knew I needed to make the important pilgrimage to Islay. Since reading it, I am convinced there is no other route.

If you are a whisky lover or someone who just loves a damn interesting read, I recommend adding this title to your shelf. It’s inspiring, at the least.

Learn about life at Lagavulin

March 13, 2013 in Interviews

Lagavulin distillery

At the Lagavulin distillery on Islay, warehouseman Iain McArthur has spent 42 years experiencing what secrets go on behind its doors.

Now, he is opening up the distillery to one competition winner who will spend two days with him as an apprentice in June, going behind the scenes to learn about it in full.

“I love my job and cannot wait to share all the aspects of what makes it so special with one lucky winner,” he said, in a recent interview.

Iain McArthur LagavulinApplicants have until the end of the month to apply via the Friends of the Classic Malts explaining why they would love to take part.

The distillery has had many requests over the years from people wanting to experience life at Lagavulin, explained Iain, so the company decided it was time to do just that.

The winner will get the chance to cut peat, learn the art of distilling and maturation in all its nitty gritty forms and discover just what it means to be a warehouseman.

“They’ll also discover the beauty of having a wee dram of Lagavulin after a hard day’s work.  And there will be a few secrets to tell as well,” he said.

Despite having been at Lagavulin for more than four decades, he still finds it magical.

“When we say magic, it’s not just the process of making the whisky, it’s the natural surroundings, the people, and the lovely Islay weather we’re talking about.  It’s sometimes hard to describe to people who haven’t visited but Islay is a very special Island, with distilling in her heart and once experienced we hope the apprentice will take a piece of our magic home with them,” he said.

And what does he love most about his job that he’s hoping to share? It’s simple, he said: “Being in amongst the Islay Angels.”

For your chance to win two days as an apprentice at Lagavulin, visit the Friends of the Classic Malts and apply before the end of March. Fifty runners up will receive a signed bottle of Lagavulin 16-year old.

 

Helen Arthur speaks to Miss Whisky

February 22, 2013 in Whisky Women

 ”The thrill of tasting a new expression or discovering someone who has the courage to build a new distillery is just as good today as it was when we first started.” – Helen Arthur

 

Helen Arthur is a well-known whisky author and archivist and former whisky PR who has been involved in the industry since the 1980s.

As an original ‘Whisky Woman’ she published her first book – The Single Malt Whisky Companion – in 1997. It was the first fully illustrated whisky book to hit the market and was an international best seller.

She has since gone on to produce numerous titles and in this Whisky Women interview, she speaks of her 30-years of experience in the industry, how women’s roles in it have developed and the bemusement with which she and other whisky commentators view changes in the industry.

 

How did you get involved in the world of whisky in the 1980s?

I went to work in Scotland at Hall Advertising in 1981 when my husband Dick (who was in the Parachute Regiment) was posted to Edinburgh. Among other accounts I worked on was The Glenlivet and Glen Grant.

I then went to Manchester Business School and met a man called Patrick Gallagher. We set up a PR business together and our first account was The Famous Grouse. For the next 20 odd years I always had a whisky account among my PR clients so I found myself writing about whisky.

What made you want to continue writing about whisky?

I thought about writing a book on whisky after we completed a special project with The Glendronach, but didn’t find the time. In 1996 my husband died and I received a phone call from a publisher suggesting I might like to write a book about whisky as part of their ‘Companion’ series. Apparently they had asked other writers but they couldn’t help and they had all said I might be interested as I was recently widowed and could well appreciate something different to do, and I knew the whisky industry backwards.

I was quite nervous to start with but with encouragement from friends I wrote my first book. The most exciting thing was that for the first time they agreed to photograph each bottle and not just rely on labels as previous books had done. I also suggested they add more colour photographs to make the book different. It turned into an international best seller – one cannot ask for more than that.

I am very grateful to a huge number of people who supported me and gave me the benefit of their time and experience – they were all hugely inspirational.

Helen Arthur Whisky

Helen Arthur, writing about the Classic Malts Cruise

What was the industry like 30 years ago for women?

There were quite a lot of women in the whisky industry but nobody talked about them – there were women working in distilleries, but our key strength areas included PR, marketing, visitor centres etc. We were very much front line.

Today, thanks to a change of view by the industry as a whole, women are very much seen as part of the total mix. There are key women in distilleries, as managers, makers, blenders, cask managers and a whole lot more and, of course, people like you and me who bring a feminine touch to the writing side of the business!

What is a favourite whisky you’ve tried?

That’s a very difficult one to answer. I have tasted many fabulous whiskies. One which sticks in my mind though is a Ben Nevis 27 years old – it was absolute nectar. A consistent favourite has been Bowmore 17 years old.

You’re also a spirits archivist. What interesting stories have you come across?

Boxes containing nearly every letter written by James Burroughs who founded Beefeater gin were a fascinating insight into his life and the period in which he lived. The fact that he’d gone to America to seek his fortune and that his return was so well documented really brought him to life. We also found his diaries and cash books with items such as shoes for his children.

Whilst working on the life of William Teacher I discovered similar details including lists of their daily deliveries from one of his shops of wine, port and whisky.

Perhaps the best has to be the telegram from Niagara Falls during Prohibition addressed to Laphroaig distillery saying ‘the medicine has arrived’.

What do you think is missing in whisky writing at the moment?

I realise I am a bit of a dinosaur, but I do feel that whisky writing has changed. If you pick up any magazine topics are shorter without great depth and many of them are simply repeating what others have said over and over again – inevitable, perhaps, but I know there is still a lot out there to tell.

I think we need more in-depth interviews with people who have made whisky great over the past 50 years – there has been an extraordinary revolution in the whisky industry and it has grown exponentially. This is true in part because of demand, but there wouldn’t have been that demand without the dedication, professionalism, love and consistency of standards which the guys (and gals) at the coal face put into making whisky every single day.

We have also lost sight of the terroir aspect of whisky and perhaps some in depth research on this might be interesting. For example Diageo moved away from maturing everything at source some time ago, whilst others firmly believe that everything has to be done at the distillery.

What achievement are you most proud of in your career?

I think the best achievement overall has to be that I have introduced so many people to the wonderful world of whisky through my books and tastings, and have made a huge number of friends.

Also, through my profession, which is also my passion, I have been able to raise money to help others. My husband was looked after during his last three days by our local hospice – St Michael’s in Hereford. The year after his death through a network of lovely friends I held whisky dinners in private houses and we raised over £7,000 and I continue to raise money for them each year.

Additionally I have raised money through whisky events in Kenya to help build schools in the Northern Territory, dig a well for an orphanage in Nairobi and pay for a young girl to have a heart operation.

And, of course, having my name on my own whisky collection is pretty cool!

Helen Arthur Whisky

One of Helen's paintings

 

You’ve known folks like Jim Murray and Jim McEwan for years. Do you all discuss industry changes?

I don’t see them as much as I did but we do still chat. I think we are all slightly bemused by the inevitable changes happening in the industry, such as the fact distilleries are getting larger and more automated. But we all still love working in the industry and the thrill of tasting a new expression or discovering someone who has the courage to build a new distillery is just as good today as it was when we first started.

Do you feel more women could or should be involved in the whisky industry?

I think women are finding a proper place in the whisky industry. There is no doubt that there is room for some great female whisky writers. I know that we bring a different complexion to the world of whisky – we smell and taste things in our own way and our descriptors are usually more varied (or, you could say whacky) than those written by men.

What is your favourite memory of whisky drinking?

The first single malt I remember trying particularly was Highland Park. Patrick Gallagher and I had gone to visit the distillery with Matthew Gloag of Famous Grouse. We sat by the shore near Maes Howe – the ancient burial site – and watched the sun go down on a warm February day. Magic!

I do also remember my grandfather suggesting I might like a whisky when I was very young – he liked a tot most days. It was, I think, VAT 69. My great grandfather was a vintner, so it must be in the blood!

What I’m reading: Appreciating Whisky

February 11, 2013 in Whisky Books

Recently, I went on a big whisky book buying splurge. I already had a few but I thought I’d up my collection and really delve into the subject even more because a) I love a good book and b) I love anything to do with whisky.

So, I went out and got some recommendations. One that Diageo brand ambassador Colin Dunn suggested I find was Appreciating Whisky, written by Scotch Malt Whisky Society founder, Pip Hills.

However, attempting to track down this book was no easy feat. It is out of print and the only copies available online were priced at £40 (out of this whisky lover’s budget).

Luckily, Twitter came to the rescue. I put a call-out for it online and within minutes I’d found someone based in London who had a copy. A snowy journey out to west London to borrow the book from a fellow drinks industry insider followed and I have been devouring this book ever since. It (and the others I ordered) showed up just in time since an ongoing cold has meant many whiskies I would love to sample are sitting patiently in my in-tray until I can smell properly again.

So, just what is Appreciating Whisky all about? To look at the title, it would be obvious: how does one appreciate whisky? But, once you delve into its pages, you realise it is far more than just a quick look at nosing and tasting, and rather, a full explanation on everything from organic chemistry to the olfactory glands’ functions and Scottish cultural history.

The book – published in 2000 – is fascinating. In fact, it made me remember just how much I enjoyed chemistry in high school. It is easy enough to comprehend for someone just coming into the world of whisky but provides in-depth features to entertain those who happen to know that little bit more. It is also cutting in many places, speaking out against people in the whisky industry who try to pull the wool over consumers’ eyes (or taste buds) and the actions of distilleries that Pip does not agree with. Whether you come to agree with him or not is up to you, but at least he voices his opinions clearly.

It can, at times, seem slightly haughty or overly ambitious and the chapter on tasting whisky (in which it is suggested that one should only taste in an environment ENTIRELY free of any other scents – from sweat to perfume, deodorant and furniture polish) is important but slightly fanciful for the average taster and made me question my times drinking whisky at the SMWS (which he founded) during which one finds oneself in small members’ rooms with loads of scents from the surrounding patrons. Still, this book is about teaching you how Pip believes you should learn to appreciate whisky, so his thoughts are worth listening to.

At times while reading it, I felt like I was back in school, and the notes on the interaction of various chemicals from the wood used in maturation is not something I could take in entirely during my first read-through. This is one I’d like to have on my shelf to be able to refer back to when I have in-depth chemical queries. However, I do have to return this copy to the kind gentleman who lent it to me after my cry for help on Twitter. It will, therefore, be one I shall be saving up to buy a copy of and I recommend it to whisky lovers new and old.

What whisky books should Miss Whisky add to her bookshelf? Let her know your favourites in the comment section or by dropping her a line on info@misswhisky.com

Lady of the Glen Single Cask Whisky

February 1, 2013 in Reviews

Recently, I wrote about a new independent single cask whisky company on the block called Lady of the Glen, which you can read all about here.

In short, the company was started by Gregor Hannah (who is also a bagpiper) in Fife. He will be bottling only single cask whiskies and currently has two to offer in his range: a 24-year old Invergordon and a 14-year old Benrinnes.

As I have written about before, I am a big fan of single cask whiskies (or, at least the ones I am familiar with) and normally experience them through the Scotch Malt Whisky Society. I was, therefore, intrigued to learn of a young whisky aficionado who had spent three years setting up his own single cask bottling company.

I have tried both of his first whisky releases and here are my thoughts on each.

Invergordon: 24-year old: 56%:

(c): Golden mustard

(n): To start, there was LOADS of vanilla and cream, akin to chewy vanilla pods that are desperate to jump right out of the glass. When I added water to help ease that 56% bite, notes of milk chocolate came through in addition.

(p): This was a really spicy whisky without any water (not entirely a surprise) with loads of ginger and lemon flavours. Without water, it wasn’t as multidimensional as I might have expected but it was pleasant. With water, a lovely oiliness came to the surface and there were notes of vanilla, chewy lemon peel and fleshy fruits. It was much easier to handle with water but had a touch of a bitterness that I’m not a massive fan of – but I am really sensitive to any bitter notes, so this will be heightened on my palate.

(f): Without water, this had a thick gingerbread and licorice finish but with water, that heavy flavour eased and more fruity, peach notes came through.

BenRinnes: 14-year-old: 57.8%:

(c): Amber sunset

(n): This was very intriguing – a mix of cherries, a hint of cough syrup, oak, milk chocolate, vanilla, lemon and coconut: a full basket of ripe flavours even without water.

(p): On the palate, it was slightly drying and there was a tiny note of sulphur in there too. It was really fruity with apple, peach, fig and milk chocolate notes. I would never guess it was so strong, as the alcohol burn really didn’t come through in this one. I thought it was delicious but it could be a bit divisive with that touch of sulphur taste lingering in the background.

(f): The finish was all about dried apples. A perfect dessert!

Big and Feisty: Getting to grips with Balcones

January 28, 2013 in Reviews

If you’ve got your ear to the ground in the whisky world, then chances are you will have heard of – if not yet tried – the products from Balcones Distillery, a craft whisky company based in Waco, Texas.

From the Whisky Magazine Icons of Whisky awards, to the Wizards of Whisky awards and Best in Glass awards, Balcones has been hitting the headlines by snaffling up loads of prizes for its various products.

But, headlines aside, just what is Balcones?

Well, the distillery was founded in 2008 by a chap called Chip Tate, who had already established himself on the craft brewing scene after training as a brewer through the Institute and Guild of Brewing and Distilling’s programme back in 2002.

After deciding he wanted to focus on distilling, he founded Balcones, which is named after a large fault line that runs from the southwest of the state, through to the northern central part where Waco is.

Chip then managed to get an internship to study alongside Bruichladdich’s Jim McEwan over the summer of 2008. Following this, he headed back to the heat of Texas to build his distillery from scratch and began producing spirit in 2009, launching the first Texas whisky since Prohibition called Baby Blue, which was made from the unusual blue corn.

Since, he has gone on to launch an array of other Texas whiskies, including the True Blue, Rumble Cask Reserve, Texas Single Malt ’1′ and Brimstone brands, amongst others. He’s also recently become a father, so there seems to be little time to rest for Chip.

At last year’s Whisky Magazine Icons of Whisky Awards, Balcones was named ‘Craft Distillery of the Year’, while later on in 2012, the Wizards of Whisky awards voted it the ‘US Craft Distillery of the Year’ and the Best in Glass Awards gave its Texas Single Malt ’1′ the overall winner of the year award.

I received some samples back in December and I have been pondering over them ever since. There is a reason for this and it is simply that Balcones makes whiskies that are unlike any others I’ve tried before. I needed to come back to them two or three times to get a better idea of whether I liked, loved or loathed them.

So, what conclusions have I come to?

I’ll start with the Baby Blue whisky, which comes in at 46% ABV and which is distilled from blue corn. Now, if you’ve not had blue corn chips (ie: crisps), you’ll probably have no idea what they taste like. As a child, these were a special treat in my house normally saved for the Grey Cup (that’s the Canadian [American] football championships) and the Super Bowl (American [American] football championships). Keeping up with me? Good. This whisky is certainly unusual but it’s also appealing, as I found on subsequent tastings. With a colour of Quality Street toffee coins, it has a spring-like nose of grassy fields, a forest, hay and violets, with the additions of roasted nuts, melting brown sugar and marzipan. The palate was more watery than expected at first, but it gave way to flavours of vanilla, aspartame, a hint of spearmint, and had the powdery, dusty characteristic of crumbling SweetTart candies. The finish was slightly drying, with a vegetal note. I loved the smell of this whisky but the taste, for me, was a bit underwhelming on the whole. Still, I’ve got more to try so I’ll likely come back to it again.

Next up was the Texas Single Malt ’1′, a stronger dram that comes in at 53% made in the more ‘traditional’ sense with malted barley. This one, again, perplexed me as I had very different reactions to it each time I picked it up. The first time, there were huge (read: HUGE) notes of caramel and vanilla, that burst out of the glass. The next time, I smelled more cloves, oak and chewy black licorice notes that reminded me of something from my childhood I couldn’t quite place (though a woodshop and Christmas came to mind). The third time it reminded me of the filling you put into butter tarts (find out what this Canadian food is here). Regardless, this whisky had my favourite ‘nose’ of the three I tried from Balcones. But I’m still unsure about how it sits on the palate. For me, there was a lot of fire and youngish notes to it in the mouth that weren’t as appealing though these certainly eased with water. Sitting behind that intensity, however, was a rich thick honey, oak and cherry cough syrup flavour that I really enjoyed. It has a certain acidity to the finish as well that was hard to place. I think I need to go back to it a fourth time to see how it changes yet again.

The final dram of the brand I sampled was Brimstone. Now, if ever there were a divisive whisky, this would be it for me. I’ve read a lot of good reviews and a lot of perplexed reviews about this one but the general theme is this: BBQ. It is one hell of a meaty dram in the mouth. Coming in at 53%, this whisky is smoked using a secret process involving Texas scrub oak. The first time I picked it up, all I could smell was pulled pork and a heavy scent of thyme. Unfortunately for me, the smell of thyme tends to make me nauseous because my mother used to make me drink homemade thyme tea when I had a sore throat – and I still can’t get past that smell. But the next time I tried to conquer its beastly scents, I attempted blocking out the thyme scents and instead found peppermint, bacon, wrapping paper and dusty straw fields. The palate is BBQ, BBQ, BBQ, with a touch of chocolate mole, my grandparents’ basement, the inside of a sweaty cowboy hat (I grew up in the countryside, so this was a commonly pervading smell in summer), and butter with a finish of treacle. Brimstone, like the others, is one I’ll need to explore further but I don’t know if it’ll ever win my heart. I highly recommend you try it, however, because your brain will be more confused than Homer Simpson.

And so, how do I conclude my journey with Balcones? This is a whisky brand that definitely challenges and that is a good thing, although I’d recommend getting a wee drop from friends with these bottles or tasting them at a whisky show before you invest in a bottle, simply because they are quite different. They are well worth trying and pondering over – most certainly, chameleons in a glass. And that, sometimes, can be most interesting indeed.