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Valiant Dalmore

May 1, 2013 in Reviews

Dalmore ValourFor many whisky companies, travel retail (or duty free for consumers) has become the place to release interesting and deliberately different bottlings.

In the past couple of months, there’s been the Highland Park Warriors and The Balvenie Triple Cask selections, to name just two.

Now, The Dalmore has launched its Valour in travel retail, following up from last year’s first editions of the Constellation Collection which was originally debuted exclusively at Heathrow Terminal 5.

This release has been named after the valiant efforts of one of the members of the Mackenzie clan (later, the owners of The Dalmore) who saved King Alexander III from a runaway stag. The family was granted a Royal 12-point stag for their coat of arms by the rather happy king, and that stag is what you’ll find on each bottle of The Dalmore.

Made from a blend of three cask finishes (namely: first fill ex-bourbon casks and 30 year old Matusalem oloroso sherry butts married together and finished in port pipes) the new whisky comes in at 40% ABV and costs £50.

I was sent a wee sample (found in that rather pretty box, above) and have had a chance to try it. Here’s what I thought:

Dalmore Valour sample The Dalmore Valour: 40% ABV: £50:

(C): Mahogany

(N): Buttery brown sugar, sticky cooked apples, cooked golden raisins and sticky toffee pudding to start – rich all around. There’s also something musty (in a good way) that makes me think of a fur coat, stored with oranges. With water, more of a nutmeg and orange blossom note emerge – it’s still rich but with a bit more lift.

(P): Starts out rounded and fruity (cooked fruits) then moves to a lovely burnt brioche note – it’s slightly smoky but with a bready sweetness. With water, it didn’t hold up too well for me. Some of those lovely rich notes and layers dissipated too much for my liking.

(F): Orangey cardboard.

In summary, this is a rich, gooey and wintery dram that goes through a great set of layers when tasted neat. I’d not, personally, dilute it again as  I enjoyed it much more without water. A valiant bit of drammage indeed.

The Balvenie: Single Barrel 12 year old

April 27, 2013 in Reviews

Balvenie Single Barrel 12I’ve been a big fan of The Balvenie since early on in my whisky tasting journey. It started, as I’ve now learned it does for many people, with the DoubleWood 12 and one of my favourite whiskies of 2012 was the Golden Cask Rum Finish 14 year old. I’m a sucker for whiskies that have a tropical fruit, honey and spice backbone and this company seems to almost always tick the boxes (at least on its more bourbon-influenced releases).

But I have decided that the latest release has now plumped for top position in my book.

The Single Barrel first fill 12 year old is the new kid on the block for The Balvenie. Last year, the company introduced the Caribbean Cask 14 year old and the DoubleWood 17 into its standard line-up.

The company already has a single cask bottling in the form of the Single Barrel 15 year old but that isn’t restricted in terms of the type of cask used. It is also being slowly phased out, so this 12-year old will likely be the star of the single barrel show in the near future.

The new 12 year old bottlings will come from first fill American oak ex-bourbon barrels, meaning each release should take on the heavier vanilla and sweeter notes one tends to get from a first fill cask (ie: casks filled with Scotch for the first time after holding a bourbon or sherry). It’s being bottled at a relatively high strength for The Balvenie – 47.8% – and is non chill filtered. No more than 300 bottles of each release will hit shelves so at a cost of around £43-£45 it’s quite a steal.

Because it is a single cask, the release I am reviewing will of course be unique, though I’m sure the malt master extraordinaire that is David Stewart – who’s been with the company for more than 50 years now – will be choosing ones of a similarly pleasing nature.

And so, to the review. Here’s what I thought:

(C): Runny golden honey

(N): Very floral with notes of honey and marzipan, and a touch of lemony eucalyptus, which surprised. As it airs, malty notes and freshly sawed pine wood come into play too. With water, those wonderful sappy pine forest notes come out more for me along with Christmas marzipan or sticky stollen.

(P): On the palate, this has a delightfully oily mouthfeel, due to that non-chill filtering aspect. It’s rich and sticky, and slightly sharp without water because of the high ABV. There are lemony notes, the taste of envelope glue, gummy honey and honeysuckle. With water, this hold up very well – a teeny hint of something almost smoke like emerges before a burst of strawberry foams dipped in honey.

(F): Without water, it’s subtle with fresher honeyed pine notes. With water, for some reason I kept thinking of watermelon bubblegum.

In conclusion, this new release shows it has gusto with its big powerful flavour and the richness that comes from both a high ABV and the non-chill filtering. It makes me want to try every Balvenie in this form to see how the other releases would be if given the same treatment. One to drink in a summer garden.

2003 Glenfarclas Family Cask: Nickolls & Perks

April 22, 2013 in Reviews

The Glenfarclas distillery in Speyside is a great favourite of mine, as are the malts it produces. While I normally shy away from heavily sherried whiskies, for some reason most of the range that this family-owned distillery produce really hit home for me.

I visited last year and managed to try a huge variety in a tasting with George Grant – the company’s brand ambassador and great-great-great grandson of the original owner. My firm favourite has been the 15-year old but the 105 cask strength is also up there.

The company has a large range, including something called The Family Casks, which started out with one bottling of single cask whisky from each year from 1952 to 1994 and now includes seven more releases. If you’re ever in London’s Soho and near The Vintage House, the members’ club upstairs (the Soho Whisky Club) has them all displayed. So, when the folks at specialist wine and spirits merchants Nickolls & Perks told me they had bottled a 2003 selection for their customers, I was keen to give it a try.

This 2003 Glenfarclas was bottled at 57.5% and comes from cask #1448. Here’s what I thought of it:

Glenfarclas Family Cask(C): Melting brown sugar

(N): Almond cake, chewy grainy marzipan, a bit of chocolate and a nice bite because of the higher abv. More orange peel notes come out with water.

(P): A surprising lack of burn on the palate makes for quite a suave whisky. Notes of juicy oranges to start with sherry kick that follows. Mid-sip there is brown sugar and sour plums. With water some bitter notes emerge with addition of dark chocolate, orange and cinnamon.

(F): Woody oranges

This is a lovely bottling from Glenfarclas and while it’s not my favourite (the 15 continues to hold that spot) it is intriguing and very palatable.

For more information on the whisky, including George Grant’s tasting notes and how to order, head here.

 

Whisky A, B, Cs: Caskstrength & Cutty Sark

April 20, 2013 in Reviews

The art of whisky blending, and trying the fruits of that labour, has been on my mind a lot this year. From Cutty Sark Prohibition, to Compass Box’s brands, learning from Diageo’s blending masters, and trying Ballatine’s, it’s been a year where blends have been on the brain.

The latest experience in this whisky segment came from an invite extended to me by the affable chaps at Caskstrength: Neil Ridley and Joel Harrison.

The two dapper gents, who are well known for their irreverent style and imprint on the whisky market, had released a new whisky as part of their independent bottling series, which is seeing them bottle a whisky for each letter of the alphabet.

In 2011, in honour of the 3rd birthday of Caskstrength.net, there was a bottling of Arran whisky, and in 2012, it was BenRiach. This year, they teamed up with Cutty Sark, which is celebrating its 90th birthday, having been released by London wine and spirits merchants Berry Bros & Rudd in March 1923. The result: their own blended whisky based on the attributes of the famous brand and bottled at 90 proof (51.4%).

They have put together a video of them revealing their latest whisky, which can be found here.

Circle Line? More like Cutty Line!

On the night of the reveal in person here in London, the two decided that – rather than doing a traditional whisky launch – they would take a group on a “tube crawl” to teach everyone about the brand’s development and their partnership.

Cutty Sark CaskStrength Launch

Joel Harrison, one of our captains

In a rather quirky twist, a group of us headed out on the “Cutty Line” where we learned about how much London’s tube stations have to do with whisky making (obviously that was a wee bit stretched in truth) from our two “captains” before heading to Casita cocktail bar, which is tucked away on a side street near Old Street tube.

There we gathered with Kirsteen Campbell, Cutty Sark’s master blender, who helped Neil and Joel put the blend together.

The inspiration behind doing a blend for the third release (outside of the brand happening to have a major anniversary and it starting with the third letter in the alphabet) was simple, Neil told us.

“We believe blending doesn’t get the recognition it should so we wanted to pay attention to and work with one of the most robust and quintessentially English blends,” he said.

The difficulty lay, said Kirsteen, in creating a blend in such small quantities (only 500 bottles have been released) and in working with the alcohol strength.

“The challenge was also to go higher in strength because it becomes more tricky on the palate – we had to tweak the recipe so it could be smooth at the higher strength,” she commented, adding the whisky has been made predominantly from a blend of The Glenrothes, North British grain whisky, The Macallan and Highland Park.

The result – like the other two bottlings – has been a success. In fact, I’ve been told by the team at Master Of Malt – who are distributing the release – that not many bottles are actually left. Given it’s priced at the very reasonable £34.95, it’s no wonder.

Cutty Sark Caskstrength Launch

Kirsteen Campbell, Neil Ridley and the man in the yellow hat - no monkey in sight though!

But what, you’re surely asking, does this more powerful Cutty Sark taste like?

Well, on the nose it is quite floral with a bit of a dusty, sherry note and a butter and caramel tinge. There’s a lot of alcohol bite to it at first, so it’s one to let stand in the glass for a few minutes and nose carefully. There is also a wee bit of lemony-citrus notes and a briney addition that hits the back of the nostrils. On the palate, the whisky is lovely and creamy, with a grassy hint that balances the flavour profile out. There’s a bit of caramel sweetness and a finish that reminds me of the smell of a tin of Quality Street. It’s a very pleasant dram and I have enjoyed sampling it thoroughly.

Now, it’s up to the boys to get brainstorming for whisky release number four…but what will “D” be?

For more information on the release and to buy a bottle head here.

 

Whisky Live London Roundup 2013

April 3, 2013 in Events

ChatterboxI sometimes suffer from an affliction of the most distracting kind – the chatty bug.

Known to affect many of the North American breed, it leaves its victims in a state of constant communication, unable to absorb or apply themselves to anything outside of the realm of conversation.

Scientists – especially those in Paris who are frequently subject to loud sufferers with southern accents who only speak ENGLISH – are working to find a cure but hope is fading that those afflicted will ever be able to escape its clutches entirely.

And it does tend to strike at the most unfortunate of times – in the latest case for this whisky lover, it launched itself into action during Whisky Live London, leaving me unable to spend much time sampling.

As such I admit now that, due to the unforeseen appearance of the chatty bug, I have fewer top whisky recommendations to share with the world, despite spending seven hours wandering a closely confined space filled with innumerable drams.

Chatty bug aside, Whisky Live returned to the Royal Honourable Artillery Club recently with many stands featuring everything from whisky, rum and bourbon makers, through to craftspeople and food producers.

Things started out smoothly enough – after a quick scan of the room I was off on my way. But then I ran into Cat Spencer at the Master of Malt stand (the company for which she is head of marketing), where I started chatting so much that I didn’t even get to try their That Boutique-y Whisky Company: Clynelish that everyone was raving about after the show.

Cat Spencer Whisky Live

Next, I had a quick chat with Eddie and Amanda Ludlow who were on great form with their Great Whisky Company hats on, helping Chip Tate spread the word about his Balcones whiskies. Knowing I would be trying the full range soon after the show at a separate event (and from which an interview with Chip will be forthcoming here on Miss Whisky) I continued chatting without really trying the whisky itself!

Chip Tate Whisky Live

I did manage a quick stop-in at the Inver House distillers stand where – after a quick chat, of course, with Lucasz Dynowiak who was pouring Old Pulteney (and who is also from Edinburgh Whisky Blog) – I got the chance to sample Old Pulteney 35-year old. The whisky, I was told, was matured in ex-bourbon casks before being transferred to active ex-Oloroso sherry casks for 18 months. It had a lovely furniture polish and woody note on the nose with hints of lemon peel, and a great gentle balanced sweetness with nutty characteristics on the palate from that sherry influence.

I continued my circulation of the room and spent a few minutes speaking with Oliver Hughes of the new Dingle Distillery, a craft distillery located on the west coast of Ireland. While the company is still in its very early stages, it is already maturing spirit to make whisky and has released a vodka and a gin which are being distributed in many of the town’s lovely restaurants. The gin I sampled was extremely floral (the company uses fuscia as one of its botanicals) and fragrant on the nose – so much so it took two rinses of my glass to get it clean for trying more whisky. I look forward to seeing what else comes from Ireland’s newest distillery arrival.

Next up, I headed to The Glenrothes stand, where Spirits Manager Doug McIvor poured me a 2001 vintage. In between catching up, I managed to nose and taste this appealing dram, which was filled with melting butter, lemon, caramel and bananas on the nose, and licorice, oak, toffee and a hint of sulphur on the palate.

Then it was over to the Whyte & Mackay stand to say hello to Richard Paterson who was serving up drams to interested and awed passersby in his usual engaging and flamboyant manner. On the stand I grabbed a wee sample of the Dalmore Millennium 2000, bottled exclusively for members of the Dalmore Custodians online members’ club. It had one of my favourite ‘noses’ of the day, with hints of cocoa, melon, baked apple skins and butter. On the palate, it was creamy and reminded me of a sherry soaked Terry’s Chocolate Orange. All around, rather drinkable.

This was followed by a visit to the Burn Stewart stand in the accompaniment of Kirsty Chant of Chant Communications – though, more like Chat Communications that day (see what I did there?). In between the conversation I managed to try the Deanston 12, Bunnahabhain 18 and Bunnahabhain 25, the latter of which really stood out for me. A mix of red apple skin, toffee, oak and dried nutmeg on the nose and palate made for a rich, pleasing dram that I could drink repeatedly.

Mackmyra Whisky LiveThe rest of the show is a bit of a blur – not due to whisky consumption but simply due to the amount of time spent speaking to people I’d met before and those who were complete strangers (the chatty bug does not discriminate with whom one holds a conversation).

Final whiskies that really stood out were the various offerings on the Mackmyra stand, from the new make spirit marketed in Sweden as Vit Hund (or White Hound) that was full of jasmine tea and bilberry on the nose with a fresh, fruity palate bursting with blackcurrents, and the Mackmyra Blue, which had a glorious, bountiful melange of vanilla, pears and blueberries on the nose and vanilla, almonds and cream on the delicate palate. The Special ’08 (Mackmyra finished in Sauternes casks) was so great that in between chats with master blender Angela D’Orazio and Jon from Living Room Whisky I could only process the statement “TASTES GOOD”, which, let’s face it, is sometimes all whisky needs to be – damn good.

Whisky Live tasting note

And so concluded another Whisky Live London. There are many drams that I would have loved to have tried but the chatty bug gets its way most times it rears its head. I only hope it doesn’t strike so thoroughly next time!

Were you at Whisky Live London? What drams stood out for you? Let Miss Whisky know in the comment box below!

Thank you to Whisky Live for inviting me along to the show this year and to Jon Bryant of Living Room Whisky for providing the final photo.

 

 

 

 

 

Glenrothes Review: 1998, 1995 & 1988

April 1, 2013 in Reviews

You know those moments in life when you go get the sinking feeling in your stomach and go: “Oh bugger, I forgot!” Well, luckily they happen rarely for me. In fact, I pride myself on managing to keep many balls juggling in the air at one time quite comfortably.

But, then, sometimes one drops.

This is what happened recently. Somehow I managed to completely and entirely erase The Glenrothes Twitter Tasting from my brain, like wiping off chalk from a chalkboard.

I’m not sure how this occurred – I acknowledged my decision to participate on Twitter, received the samples and then completely…forgot. Worryingly for me I even sent an email to the person I thought posted the samples saying thank you as I wasn’t sure what they were for. Her response? For a Twitter tasting…that had already happened. So embarrassing.

On a positive note, what this has meant is I’ve gone on to taste all three Glenrothes Vintages – the 1998, 1995 and 1988 – in my own time and so wanted to share my thoughts on them with you, even if it was a bit more belated than should have originally been planned on! I went back to read the comments from Twitter afterwards (great conversation worth checking out if you’re on Twitter; just search #GlenrothesVintage and it’ll all come up) and have quoted some of my favourite comments below.

But first, a bit of background. The Glenrothes was built in 1878 and started producing whisky the following year. In 1887 it became a part of the Highland Distilleries company. The whisky produced there went on to be a big part of Berry Bros & Rudd’s Cutty Sark blend, among others. Because of this connection, when Berry Bros & Rudd wanted to move further into the single malt space in the 1980s, they spoke with the owners of The Glenrothes and agreed to release a whisky together. The Glenrothes 12 year old went to market in 1987 and the first vintage (a 1979) was released in 1994. While the distillery is owned now by Edrington, the brand itself is owned by Berry Bros & Rudd.

And now onto the tasting. Here’s what I thought of each:

Glenrothes 1998 sample The Glenrothes: 1998: 43% ABV:

 (C): Burnt toffee

(N): Very buttery at first with a bit of honeycomb and oak. Then just more butter, butter, butter with a dollop of vanilla toffee thrown in for good measure. After tasting it I got more zingy fruit and later on the smell of my aunt’s lounge in their old house (not helpful as a tasting note, I realise, but something I couldn’t help but mention). Reading the Twitter notes later, I fully agreed with @BBRob’s suggestion that it smelled of “those fruit salad sweets of yesteryear.”

(P): It was more delicate than expected, with a bit of vanilla sweetness and a gentle, grassy shift mid-sip. Then a hint of custard, a dash of sticky toffee sweets and a bit of sulphur.

(F): It was pleasant if not revolutionary – a bit sweet, a bit grassy and a bit salty.

The Glenrothes: 1995: 43% ABV:

(C): Golden Caramel

(N): Butterscotch with prominent strawberry foams and battenburg cake, then strawberries and cream, a sweet herb (tarragon maybe?) and some banana and vanilla notes. On checking out Twitter, I also agreed with @TheWhiskyBoys’ note of lavender talc, though I got more lavender sweets.

(P): At first I got lots of raisins and plums, but then a bit of milk chocolate and marshmallows came through before a slight sulphur note and orange peel, with a dash of freshly baked croissants.

(F): Ryvita and peach chewing gum.

 

The Glenrothes: 1988: 43% ABV:

(C): Rich amber

(N): At first all I got was an overwhelming note of blackberries and chocolate but then some plummy notes came through with a dash of chalk and raisin bread. A tiny hint of white pepper put me off for a second (I can’t stand the stuff) but that subsided and wafts of oranges and leather pushed through. A beautifully rounded and attractive dram on the nose.

(P): Chewy and thick, with pungeant orange peel, cardboard and vanilla ice cream before hints of lemon balm, Cheerios, black licorice and cumin come through. My favourite Twitter tasting note came from @BBRob: “Unsalted plantain chip and hardback books handed down from maiden aunt.”

(F): Slightly drying and richly bitter.

Thank you to Amanda and Eddie Ludlow of the Great Whisky Company for providing samples and running the Twitter tasting.

Storming ahead? Talisker Storm Review

March 30, 2013 in Reviews

A few weeks back, Talisker released the latest in its whisky line-up, the Talisker Storm.

In follow-up, I spoke with Diageo’s head of whisky outreach, Dr Nick Morgan, about the reasoning behind releasing a non-age statement whisky at this particular time. That piece can be found here.

I’ve now had the chance to sample the whisky a few times to get a better idea of its nuances. I’ve also compared it to the company’s other entry level whisky, Talisker 10, a bottle of which I nicked from a mate who wasn’t particularly fond of it, having come to the decision that no smoky whisky is for him (I’m hoping to change his ways, of course).

As background, the Talisker Storm is meant to be a sort of big brother to the Talisker 10. It is a non-age statement whisky created from a mix of rejuvinated and refill casks and costs around £40.

The colour is of golden coins and the nose has a great creamy buttery smokiness to it that I found instantly appealing. There’s a slight biscuity sweetness that wafts up at first, followed by lemon and dusty hay notes.

The 10, in comparison, seems more floral on the nose when they’re side by side and slightly lighter in weight (if smells can be weighed?). There is less creaminess and it is surprisingly delicate given I’ve always considered it quite a powerhouse of a dram.

On the palate for the Storm, meanwhile, there was a nice fruity sweetness (stone fruits like apricots, peaches) with a rich chunk of rock salt lingering mid-sip. A dash of vanilla and a hint of fresh blades of grass all walk lightly over the smoky, savoury backbone, making it very satisfying.

Going back to the 10, the palate felt crisper and a bit more refreshing, with that lovely mix of vanilla sweetness, salty brine and earthy smoke.

In the end, it’s hard to say which I prefer. But I can conclude I’d like to keep both in my drinks cabinet. At only £8 more for the Storm, it is still a good buy but I’d recommend sampling them side by side if you can to see which you prefer. Neither are likely to disappoint.

 

 

Discovering Dublin & Jameson Whiskey: Part 2

March 29, 2013 in Events, Reviews

This follows on from Part 1 of my coverage from Dublin, which can be found here.

The next morning – post heavy breakfast of course – I discovered Dublin was in full swing with the spirit of St Patrick.

And once the fog had cleared from my brain, I realised one thing – while I’d tried and enjoyed Jameson in many a cocktail the night before, I’d still not really experienced it on its own.

Luckily, we had a whiskey tasting booked in with distiller Liam Donegan that afternoon.

Arriving at the Old Jameson Distillery, Lukasz, Graeme, Alex and I were all very impressed with the way it had been turned into a visitor centre and shocked at how busy and buzzy it was as hoards streamed in to experience a bit of the iconic Irish whiskey brand.

Upstairs in the tasting room, we met Liam, who has been with the company for 17 years. He started out as a research chemist and is now a distiller and quality operations manager in the production team. We were to try out the Jameson Original, Select Reserve, Gold Reserve, and Rarest Vintage Reserve.

Liam started out by explaining the background of the Jameson process. The company uses a mix of malted and unmalted barley in its malt production. The malted barley grist gets mixed with hot water and heated to 60 degrees to create a wet grist, while the unmalted is soaked in cool water and then smashed to release the sugars for the wash.

The spirit is triple distilled in 75 litre pot stills and 95% of it is aged in American oak ex-bourbon barrels, while around 5% goes into European oak ex-sherry casks and port pipes. The company is also experimenting with Madeira and Marsala wine casks, but Liam could not confirm when those casks might be used in bottlings.

Liam explaining about whiskey & the Jameson Vintage bottle.

The company also distills grain whiskey on a column still to go into its brands and once a year does a special sweeter grain run to make a spirit that is intensely perfumed. Interestingly, the company also has a barley mashbill it puts through a column still from time to time.

There are currently 940,000 barrels in storage and to keep up with demand the company has been building two new storage warehouses every year for the past three years.

Our tasting started with the Jameson Original, which was fragrant, slightly nutty with oak and citrus notes on the nose and a cooked apple and woody taste on the palate. Not my favourite of the four but a good introduction to the brand.

Next up was the Select Reserve, which is made from whiskeys ranging in age from eight to 19 years of age. It’s non-chill filtered and sits at 40% ABV. It is richer, more rounded with a slight perfume note on the nose again, topped up by cinnamon spice, butter and honeycomb scents. On the palate, there’s a bit of toffee, candy floss, strawberry Mentos and a nice nuttiness. Liam said this was like the cool older brother to Jameson Original, the guy with a few tattoos and a record collection who you want to hang out with. It was very palatable and one of my favourite of the day.

Midleton Distillery

The third one we tried was the Gold Reserve, which is made from a combination of virgin oak, first fill and European oak cask matured whiskey. Also non-chill filtered, it is normally made up of whiskey at least 14 years in age. On the nose, there was vanilla, baked oranges, vanilla pods and hazelnut skins. The palate had hints of spice, like cardamom and curry leaves, and a note of lavender right at the end, with a floral and chewy sweet finish. It was very pleasant but I personally preferred the Select Reserve.

Finally, we got to the granddaddy of whiskey: the Rarest Vintage Reserve 2007. Aged in American oak and sherry casks before being finished in port pipes, this whiskey was phenomenal. On the nose there was the scent of warm red grapes, a slight but attractive dustiness, a wood shop and sunshine. Yes, that’s right, sunshine. Okay, I sound like I’m going mad but this had a beautiful warmth that could only be described in my head as sunshine. Don’t worry – Lucasz and Graeme looked at me oddly too. On the palate, it was headily rich, with grape skins, blackcurrant cough drops and sticky fresh berries all bursting forth. My favourite by far.

Of course, the latter one is far out of my price range at £245 so, value for money, I’d definitely opt for the Select Reserve which is a steal, in my opinion, at £35 or so.

I was, in the end, impressed with what Jameson has on offer. While the Original is pleasant, I can’t imagine I’d drink it neat very often. It does, however, work very well mixed with Jameson, ginger ale and lime, which I discovered that night at Jameson Live.

L Mulligan Grocer whiskey and cheeseFirst though, we had a quick stop off to the fantastic L. Mulligan Grocer (in fact, a restaurant/pub rather than a grocers) for a whiskey and cheese pairing and lunch.

Now, I’ll admit here I often spend a lot of time in restaurants grumbling about something – not to sound pernickety but I write restaurant reviews fairly frequently and this has made me notice every bit of my dining experience.

But this place stood the test – spot-on service, an incredible selection of beers and whiskey, and warming and delicious food, including the best Scotch egg I’ve ever tried. Definitely stop by if you’re in Dublin – I’d be surprised if you were anything less than impressed.

After our highly filling lunch and a quick cat nap, it was off for Jameson Live, where various bands were to perform on a live broadcast in honour of St Patrick’s Day.

Upon arrival, it was clear Jameson had taken over – branding was everywhere from wristbands to decor and signage. Music was wafting out the doors along with the scent of whiskey. And in through those doors walked innumerable people in their twenties, lured by the promise of quality music from headliners Bombay Bicycle Club.

What was key to all of this, for me, was the fact that Jameson had integrated itself seamlessly into a brand space where they were directly affecting young consumers’ decisions. That evening, over quite a few more Jameson, ginger and lime cocktails (which, I may add, are really rather refreshing, though maybe more appreciated on a hot summer’s day rather than a chilly March eve) I watched hundreds of young consumers buy whiskey cocktails. Whether that will turn into repeat custom, is difficult to measure, but I was thrilled to see bottles flying off the shelves of the bars that night.

Now, don’t get me wrong – I’m not all in it for ‘the man’ and focusing on brand presence. But I am very much in favour of figuring out how whisky (or, whiskey) can be appealing to a younger audience. As mentioned in Part 1, within the Scotch industry I see Monkey Shoulder and Auchentoshan doing this well. It is clear, though, that Jameson are really ahead of the game. As Lucasz said: “You wouldn’t see this many people rocking out with a single malt brand.”

This is true. And whether you, dear reader, believe that these lines should be blurred, that whisky should make itself more accessible to a wider, younger audience or not, is of course up to you.

But I, for one, was glad to witness it. If people want to get into drinking whiskey by starting with Jameson cocktails, I say all the better for it.

I spend much of my time telling people about how great whisky is in order to ‘convert’ them to thinking of it instead of a vodka or rum when they head to the bar. And I’m glad to see Jameson trying to do the same thing.

Thank you very much to Jayne & Liam at Jameson and Alex at Richmond Towers for the invite and to Lukasz and Graeme from EdinburghWhisky for being savage fellow-travelers!

What I’m Reading: Peat Smoke and Spirit

March 26, 2013 in Whisky Books

Peat Smoke and Spirit novel Andrew Jefford I want to go to Islay.

No, really, I have made it one of my goals for this year.

While many whiskyphiles out there may have already made this journey, it is one that is still on my ‘to-do’ list.

And since starting the meaty but engaging Peat Smoke and Spirit: A Portrait of Islay and Its Whiskies my mind has only been further convinced that I need to hop on a plane (and then a ferry) to visit its lands.

Written by the highly regarded Andrew Jefford, the book chronicles both Islay’s history and the history of each of its distilleries (bar Kilchoman which was not yet established when the book was published in 2004). It is one for – not only whisky lovers – but history lovers too, as Jefford explores the island’s owners, conquerors, warriors and families throughout the generations.

With separate chapters on specific topics such as peat, nature and water, each is discussed deftly and with poetic prose that makes it highly readable. It also inspires envy in those (such as myself) who are yet to visit its shores (bar a brief tour of its airport on my way to Jura last year and a stop-off in Bowmore for a cuppa).

It is clear that Jefford is a story-teller. He interviews people who have lived on the island and worked with its natural resources for decade upon decade, while easily engaging the reader in their individual tales. He speaks of the whisky distilleries in dedicated chapters from all angles (from their location to history, water sources and the characters behind them) and the way he reviews the drams these distilleries produce is hypnotic. Take, for example his description of 12-year old Caol Ila: “Neat, it’s sinewy, leanly smoky and mouth-wateringly clean to finish; add a dash of water and you have a very pure, catwalk-elegant dram in which the long-legged ‘cratur’ strides out across the mouth with an alluring flourish of smoky lemon.” How sexy does that sound?

Chapter on Nature in Peat Smoke and SpiritHe also covers the natural landscape of Islay in a deeply connective way. In the “Nature” chapter, Jefford asks who does the island belong to? Is it the owners, the islanders or nature? He states in his continuation: “Only the most obsessive whisky lover could visit the island and fail to notice that the setting for its seven distinguished distilleries is a magnificent one. Nature frames Caol Ila; nature swaddles Ardbeg; nature invades Bunnahabhain.”

Before I read this book, I knew I needed to make the important pilgrimage to Islay. Since reading it, I am convinced there is no other route.

If you are a whisky lover or someone who just loves a damn interesting read, I recommend adding this title to your shelf. It’s inspiring, at the least.

Gaining Pace: Lady of the Glen

January 17, 2013 in Interviews

According to Gregor Hannah, founder of new independent, single cask whisky bottler Lady of the Glen, the key attributes of his whisky products are about flavour, cask strength and quality.

Gregor is a new entrant to the whisky market, having worked to set up his whisky company based in Fife since 2009.

But his passion and interest in whisky started many years before, founded on the times spent with his father – an army piper who traveled the world with the Black Watch Pipe Band.

“Every time he came home he would sit down in his chair, talk to his dogs and pour himself a Glemorangie and Irn Bur. It sounds blasphemous but that’s what he did.

“After he left the army he would tell me all about his varied experiences – bombs and shots in Ireland, drunken fist fights in Germany, getting sun stroke in Japan…it was a time for us to bond and laugh,” recalls Gregor.

Over the years his father’s whisky collection grew with bottles from around the globe. When Gregor turned 18, his father began to share.

“My father said I could open any bottle from his collection. Initially I chose an Indian bottle at 100% proof, [to which he said]: ‘Any bottle but that one.’ Now at every milestone we will have a toast together and thankfully there is no Irn Bru in sight,” says Gregor, adding the next big toast will be at his wedding this September.

His exposure to whisky over the years led him to take an interest in starting up his own single cask bottling company after leaving university. The decision to focus on this category was bred from a belief that there is a gap in the market for rarer, single cask bottlings at affordable prices.

“I felt at this stage it was important to keep the product close to its Scottish roots. To be honest Lady of the Glen is all about flavour, cask strength and quality,” he adds.

His main focus when he set out a business plan was on making everything perfect – a fact which meant the project has taken nearly three years to get off the ground.

“First I had to save up my pennies, find a first class designer and obtain high quality whisky casks from the correct supply chains. I am adamant that I will not rush for anyone; slow and steady wins the race and I will always strive to provide the best product possible,” he explains.

The hard work has led to him launching a 24-year old Invergordon single cask whisky (priced at £62.50) and a 14-year old Benrinnes (priced at £65.22). The label has been designed by a Scottish designer named John Hamlin. Reviews on both whiskies will be coming to this site shortly.

Gregor – who is also a bagpiper, along with his fiancée Dawn – says the main goal for the time being is in getting the product out into the public space but not by moving ahead too quickly with the brand.

“Our goal at the moment is to grow and expand our range slowly. A quality product should never be hurried simply for profit.

“However, that’s not to say we don’t have big ambitions. I want to one day export abroad but I will not go down the route of only having my whisky available abroad. At this stage I just want people to try my whisky and enjoy it with loved ones so that hopefully they can recommend the brand to a friend.”

There will be further releases in the coming months but it is a topic that Gregor is currently mum on.

And so, for someone with a long-standing history with whisky, which is his favourite?

“My granddad would say, ‘There is no such thing as a bad whisky, only some are a bit weaker than others.’ I wish I could agree with him but I’ve tasted some howlers in my time.

“For me, an excellent Invergordon embodies what Lady of the Glen is all about: it is sweet, feminine and the bursts of vanilla continue to surprise the more you taste it. It grows and evolves on the palate and is simply a joy to drink.”

And while he clearly has no aim to rush things, he does note his desire to give something to the the next generation.

“Hopefully one day any future children that I have will look at my cabinet the same way I used to look at my dad’s and I can pass this business on to them,” he concludes.

For more information on Lady of the Glen, visit: www.ladyoftheglen.com