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A grand whisky opus

September 21, 2012 in Uncategorized

When whisky writer Dominic Roskrow was approached by publishers Dorling Kindersley about putting together a new whisky book, he says it didn’t take him long to decide to take on the project.

“It is my sixth book in six years and I felt that if I had nothing to say I wouldn’t do it. That would have been tough, because it’s hard getting books, and turning them down is stupidity itself. But I knew what I wanted to do,” he says.

Working with fellow whisky author, Gavin D. Smith, the goal became to put together something that would be a bit different.

“I’m sick and tired of reading the same old stuff cut and pasted from some ancient Michael Jackson or Jim Murray book. So Gavin and I set out to work as journalists would – carrying out fresh interviews where possible, and treating each entry like a little piece of new editorial.”

The result is the Whisky Opus, a heavy-duty hardcover encyclopaedia on all things whisky. The book includes quotes from interviews with people in the whisky industry talking about everything from what makes a great whisky to why oak casks are used, before moving into a country by country outline of every whisky distillery they could find. It’s extensive, but laid out in a well-spaced, picture heavy format that has neat boxes on each right side page (such as: ‘Whisky Tales’ which feature tidbits about the featured distillery) and enough information to keep you occupied through the winter months.

Bar the sections on Germany and Canada, for which they brought in local experts (in the form of Jurgen Deibel and Davin de Kergommeaux), all research was done by Gavin and Dominic.

“I was out of depth on both [countries] really – it’s hard crossing the language barrier in the former, and Canada doesn’t do self promotion well and I needed to get someone who could get them to open up,” explains Dominic.

This was one of the main challenges he and Gavin faced. The other was getting publishers to take risks, including dropping the main section on ‘how whisky is made’ since he felt this had been done before too many times.

Creating a different feel for the book was the main goal, and the sections asking people on the ground questions about the industry is one of the things he is most proud of.

“It worked extremely well, has influenced the whole feel of the book, and offers something genuinely different. A lot of the positive response has centred around this,” he adds.

But, despite all the in-depth research, the forward moving pace of the whisky industry means sections could already be updated.

“I did the most thorough section ever published on Australia but already there are even more distilleries. And by the end of this year I’ll be in a position to do a similar section on Sweden, which hardly features in this book. It may well need updating much sooner than whisky books used to,” he says.

That momentum in the whisky industry is what, he believes, helps propel the desire for new reading material for whisky lovers.

“I’m not sure the whisky world really needed another whisky book – or at least not in the format [the publishers] DK originally suggested. But publishing’s all about demand and there seems to be an insatiable demand for whisky and whisky books – I think there’s a feeling that there are a lot of newbies out there and interest has never been higher,” he says.

Dominic's 2010 book will be updated for release.

The book, he says, is getting the best feedback of any he’s produced before, which he is glad of.

“If I’m honest I’m really delighted that people like it – it’s all well and good being the Liam Gallagher of whisky and the Paul Morley of brown spirits, but it’s nice to get a little bit of respect too,” he adds.

But while this might be his ‘opus’ Dominic says he still has much to focus on, including the updated release of his 2010 book, World’s Best Whiskies, which will feature a flexi cover and will be released in seven languages.

Whisky Opus is a coffee table book in its truest form. Its attractive cover makes it right for display, but it’s also one to pick up and flick through whenever you’ve got a spare minute. It reminds me of my school days, when big books abounded and I’d sit for hours fascinated by encyclopaedia listings and my textbooks (I was a strange child and this was before Wikipedia). And while the field of whisky literature is full of fascinating reads just now, I’m happy to add this one to my collection. You can never have too much whisky reading material after all!

Whisky Opus is in stores and online now at a retail price of £30.

 

 

Balblair: New Vintages

August 6, 2012 in Uncategorized

Balblair is in the midst of releasing three new whiskies to the market. The 1975 is the second release of this vintage – the only difference is this version was aged in American oak ex-Sherry casks, whereas the first release was aged in Spanish oak ex-Sherry casks.

I was lucky enough to try all three during a recent visit to the distillery in the Highlands, which I wrote about here.

The 1969 was the stunner but, at £1500, it’s not the most affordable whisky on the market. Then again, compare it to some whiskies of this age and that isn’t a ludicrous price tag. While that was my favourite, I was honestly impressed with them all, making Balblair hit the high note once again in my book.

Here are my notes on all three.

Balblair 2002: 46%:

A heady whisky hinting of springtime all through its drammage.

On first sniff, there’s a sugar syrup hit right at the back of the throat. But this mellows to notes of honeysuckle, white flowers (like lilies) and fresh grass.

The mouth was all candy-shop goodness: lollipops, marzipan, icing, sugar syrup dripped over lemon cake and canned peach juice. Wonderfully bountiful in its sweet offerings, this will appeal to lovers of the 2001 vintage, which is also full of almond, fudge and melted sugar flavours.                           

                                     

Balblair 1975: Second release: 46%:

Only seven casks will be released of this vintage, making the £235 price tag slightly more understandable. This whisky is very intriguing, and equally as drinkable.

On the nose, the smell of rubber tires first filtered through. But after the whisky was exposed to the air for a while, I was fully reminded of the smell of fur coats in a vintage shop!

The mouth first burst with sweet herbal notes – thyme & roasted rosemary. Then came roasted lemons, wooden popsicle sticks and how the air tastes after rain has fallen on a dusty road. Lovely!

 

Balblair 1969:

One of the stand out drams of the year for me so far. This subtle beauty is an absolute stunner. So much, I actually managed to stop talking for a full 15 minutes. Anything that can make me do that has to be pretty powerful.

This whisky filled my nose with rich, creamy mangoes and papayas, sweet white almond bark (a North American chocolate concoction), apricots and a teeny hint of smoke.

On the palate, everything got even more intense. As I sat with this dram, I was transported to a dreamy, warm meadow in mid-summer. My mouth filled with toasted wheat, honey syrup sticks (another North American confection), the rich flavours that filter from a bakery onto a Parisian street (croissants, pain aux apricots) and the twang of orange bitters. It finished, for me, on a note of nori (edible seaweed) and the sweet hint of smoked salmon.

It was glorious. End of.

 

 

Bowmore Small Batch Reserve: Small batch, big taste

May 29, 2012 in Uncategorized

Every once in a while, you find yourself needing something to take the edge off of things.

And so, it was on a particularly stressful day of late that I decided to open up my sample of the new Bowmore Small Batch Reserve whisky. According to Rachel Barrie – the master blender – one should “relax, take it easy and enter Islay time” with this dram. This sounded appealing. I was particularly desperate at that point to escape exhausting London time.

The new release combines first and second fill bourbon casks to create what the company calls ‘Bowmore’s lightest and most delicate expression to date’. It is meant to pair perfectly with vanilla ice cream, olive oil and sea salt, all of which compliment the various flavour profiles of the whisky.

As I didn’t have these things to hand, I took a bite of vanilla madeleines before a sip of the whisky – it’s not what I’d normally opt for, but my stress levels meant I was craving sugar.

A sip of whisky followed and then…

…and then…

…ahhh…

happiness.

Bliss.

I could actually create a shopping channel style advert out of my appreciation for that moment.

The characteristic Bowmore peatiness was there but in an oh so gentle way. There were hints of fudge, vanilla and oak that one would expect from an ex-bourbon cask, but it wasn’t overpowering. It just said, “Hello, you’re feeling stressed aren’t you? Well, why don’t I use my relaxing flavours to eek away your blues!”

For those that like a heavier, sherried Bowmore (like the Darkest) this might seem a bit too gentle. It’s not yelling at you but just presenting itself for enjoyment. The nose is welcoming with grassy, soft sugary notes that would appeal to a beginner, but I think the palate is complex enough with its creamy smoke, hints of lemongrass and saltiness to encourage a longer-term single malt sipper to still enjoy it.

It may be because I don’t like a whisky that’s too bitter or smoky but, for me, this was really, fantastically lovely. I fell for it.

It’s the kind of whisky that, if I had a whole bottle, I’d probably sit down with friends new to whisky and spend the night drinking it all. It was just what I needed to take the edge off!

A Glenfiddich Gathering

March 6, 2012 in Uncategorized

It sometimes amazes me how big cities can seem small once you discover the vibrant communities within them. London is a prime example – despite having millions of residents, you’ll often run into someone randomly at a market, in a pub or on the tube.

The whisky community is similar. Within London there is definitely one. And this group spirit is continuously highlighted on Twitter where the whisky loving community is ever-growing globally.

At a recent gathering, I suddenly started recognising a fair few faces from the London whisky community. This seemed appropriate for the event with Glenfiddich, which was there to showcase its latest range of whiskies, including the 1974 Vintage Vatted Release and the Age of Discovery Madeira Cask Finish.

What’s the tie-in, you may ask?

Well, Glenfiddich is a bit like London – it’s huge. It sells millions of bottles every year. But it’s equally similar to the community idea in that it prides itself on its small roots and the fact it is still owned by the same family after five generations. It’s also big on community spirit and is doing its fair share for charity.Glenfiddich’s most recent work, for example, has been to auction off a series of bottles named in honour of founder William Grant’s 110-year old granddaughter, Janet Roberts (seen above) the latest bottle of which sold for an incredible £44,000 with proceeds going towards Walking with the Wounded’s Everest Expedition (some of the team going are seen below).

It’s that community spirit that I love about the whisky industry. And as a large group of journalists and bloggers gathered to taste whiskies (which I review here) I knew they would go forth with the information, not bragging about being invited to a high-caliber event with Glenfiddich, but excited by the knowledge that they would be able to share what they had learned with the rest of the whisky community, that people would begin to chat about the whiskies and relate their own tasting notes and ideas to each other over social media or blogs.

There is a distinct lack of elitism or exclusivity within the industry; people are down to earth, friendly and welcoming. And I’m so glad to be a part of this little community and to share my thoughts with you!