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A Journey with Shackleton

January 30, 2013 in Reviews

Shackleton whisky

Original bottle of Mackinlay's Highland Malt.

One hundred and five years ago this week, Sir Ernest Shackleton and his exploration team on the Nimrod ship got stuck 20 miles away from their landing point in the McMurdo Sound due to the frozen sea. This was to be one of a huge number of difficulties faced by the explorer and his team, who had left the UK in summer 1907 to try and make it to the South Pole.

Their story has been re-told numerous times in the more than century since and those in the whisky world or who enjoy a fine dram now and again will likely have come across the story of the discovery back in 2007 of the team’s remaining bottles of Mackinlay’s Rare Old Highland Malt frozen solid underneath the hut where the group lived for 12 months during their Antarctic explorations.

In case you haven’t heard about it then, in short, the whisky – found by the New Zealand Antarctic Heritage Trust – was flown out of the Antarctic after its discovery and carefully thawed. In 2011, three of the bottles were flown “home” to Scotland to undergo intensive analysis so that Richard Paterson – master blender at Whyte & Mackay, which owns the Mackinlay brand – could recreate the whisky.

After much research, the team at Whyte & Mackay figured out the original strength of the whisky (47.3%) and its original make-up (namely: that it used peat from the Orkney Islands to malt the barley and was matured in American white oak sherry casks). Richard Paterson then used malts from distilleries such as Glen Mhor and Dalmore, amongst others, to recreate the original taste of the whisky. The result – called The Discovery Edition – was released back in 2011.

Shackleton The JourneyAs Miss Whisky was only running right at the end of 2011, I did not (and have not yet) had the chance to try that whisky.

However, I recently received a sample of the newest release called The Journey Edition. According to the company, this second edition whisky was made in commemoration of the Shackleton Epic Expedition, which took Sir Ernest across the Southern Ocean in 1916 and which is currently being recreated by a team who set sail at the end of last week. It has been made using a similar make-up to The Discovery Edition.

So, is the whisky as epic as the journey?

Here’s what I thought of it…

The Journey Edition whisky is also 47.3% and is the colour of light straw. On the nose, it was instantly appealing with a delicate balance that seesawed between soft grassy and apple notes, and a gentle, sweet smoke. There was also a hint of spun sugar (candy floss). The palate was very different than I was expecting from the tip-toe delicacy of the nose – I was quickly hit with a burst of juicy fresh oranges and citrus peel, before my palate was rammed with an intense powerful shift into a spicy, rich smoke; it was a fascinating changeover. The finish was, at first, slightly astringent but that quickly faded into a salty peatiness, like fresh sea spray.

Shackleton Whisky book

The new Shackleton book

In conclusion, this is an adventurer’s whisky – I really loved it. It walked the tightrope of flavour in only the way a master acrobat could do and I think it would definitely have kept Sir Ernest happy in all those moments of extreme fatigue and fear. I plan to save my last few drops to drink while I start my new whisky book – Shackleton’s Whisky – which chronicles the journey of the whisky taken by the team to Antarctica (and which is released in late February).

 

Whisky and Magic

May 2, 2012 in Uncategorized

The floor creaks and cracks as I step gingerly across the dusty, dark boards wary that my 4″ heel might become lodged in a crack. This would be a horrendous fate – not only for my dignity – but also because I’m holding a glass of Bowmore 15 year old Darkest and that would likely go sashaying out of my glass to land on some poor mortal in this dilapidated room.

Where am I? To be honest, after a few brown sugar sweet, plummy raisin drams, I’m not entirely sure. An hour before, my partner and I arrived at a scuffed up red door, telling us only that magic was likely to occur within…

And so it began. After a heavy knock, we were ushered inside the dimly lit space. A fire crackled in one corner and a chap named “Dickie” wandered through in a thickly woven smoking jacket, telling patrons of life living in a broken down house. Over canapes and a Bowmore cocktail we surveyed the scene and were given a token: mine a red button, my other half’s a silky white feather, which indicated we would be made to go our separate ways.

As his white-feather group was led upstairs, my group was ushered into a cosy back room by a madman with twirly mustache and frighteningly darting eyes. Inside, a soundtrack of whipping winds and splashing waves transported us to the seaside, while a story teller told of a headless horseman that circles Islay. Spine-tingling indeed.

Soon, we were whisked upstairs to a room oozing chocolate where master chocolatier Paul A Young was stirring a cauldron of gooey, hot chocolate – like those under a trance, we were drawn in to the mystical scene, palates dripping with excitement. The swirling brew was dripped into a mishmash of china teacups while we were each told to grab one Bowmore bonbon, a dark chocolate infused with whisky that magically transformed the cuppa into a grown-up drink of the tastiest kind.

As the last dollops of chocolate passed our tongues, we headed back down the higgledy-piggledy staircase and then up another nervewracking set at the back of the house. There, beneath the rafters we were taken on a starry journey with Gary Fildes, director of the Kielder Observatory. With a glass of whisky in hand, I drifted away, mesmerised as he showed us how incredible even 1-square-mm of space is, with thousands of stars and galaxies residing in that tiny block. It reminded me of childhood days when – living in the pure darkness of the Canadian countryside – you could be swallowed whole by the vast flurry of stars overhead.

Finally, heading to the basement, we rejoined the other groups and in a dopey, happy state, I listened to Bowmore brand ambassador Gordon Dundas lead us through a tasting of the 12 and 15 year old Bowmore, which included donning a darkened eye mask, cupping and shaking the whisky glass so the liquid coated our hands and then smelling the rich, cherry wood and raisin flavours imparted on our skin – all heightened by the lack of sight.

As the accordion player got the group into a spirited jig, and harmonizing voices sang out the lyrics to “What do you do with a drunken sailor” my partner and I smiled in Cheshire-cat like happiness at the magical and immersive experience we had just partaken in.

I must quaff my cap to the Bowmore team – not only did I learn about the whisky but I did it in style in the upmost of magical spaces. It was like nothing else I’ve experienced and I can only hope more whisky companies will help take customers on such incredible journeys. Inspiring, indeed!

For more information about Bowmore 12 or 15 year old Darkest, or the Bowmore brand, visit: www.bowmore.com. And thank you to Katie Palmer for providing the image of Paul A Young.

A Spirited Journey

April 28, 2012 in Uncategorized

It was when I was stuck on a rock, slowly tipping from side to side with racuous water spinning by that I realised I may not be cut out for canoeing. In slight panic, myself and canoe buddy Fiona (of Fiona Outdoors – her blog name synonymous with a person ‘at one’ with the natural world) pushed and shoved our way off the rock, attempting to free ourselves from the Lady Spey’s grip that seemed hopeful of pulling us under. After what seemed like an eternity, we skiffed back, righted the canoe and continued swooshing down the river. I was, it would seem, in desperate need of whisky to calm my nerves.

This dramatic (for me, at least) incident occurred during day two of a paddle down the River Spey with Dave Craig from Spirit of the Spey. The two day adventure took us 25 miles to the sea at Speybay, with stops at beautiful hotels and the Balvenie Distillery, where paddling companion and Balvenie UK brand ambassador Andrew Forrester provided a distillery tour. Dave has recently combined the outdoor trip with visits to whisky distilleries – a natural match for an area booming with whisky output from places like Aberlour, Cragganmore, Macallan and Balvenie.

Up until this point, I had been loving the trip. Dave is the most experienced guide for trips on the River Spey, having done more than 140 descents down the river and acting as a Scottish Canoe Association River Spey adviser for more than 30 years. Throughout the trips, he shows an enormous love and passion for the river, founded in solid knowledge (everything from the type of bird flying overhead to where the next rock will crop up). He is utterly enthusiastic and extremely kind, even when you’re not at your best.

I had been looking forward to the trip for months and couldn’t wait to get onto the water. So, it was a surprise when I found myself, well, floundering.

The trip had begun two days before at Dave and partner Jude’s lovely B&B called The Beeches – a comfy, cosy home where tea and homemade cakes are always available in the guest area. That first evening, our group of canoeists (Andrew, Fiona, Dave and Nicola, from the Whisky Boys) came together for a wonderful meal and a full tasting of the Balvenie, during which I finally tried the stunning 30-year old, a rich, American oak 49.2% whisky. Opting to not feel worse for wear the next morning I left the others to continue dramming and got some shut eye.

The next morning, I awoke to a rather beautiful but unpleasant scene – snow, snow and more snow. Miss Whisky was going canoeing in the snow. Now, being from Canada originally, I don’t mind either snow, or canoeing. But even we Canucks don’t attempt this!

Seven layers of Michelin-man style clothing later, I was curled up in the back of the car en route in the snow to the River Spey, repeating to myself: “I can’t believe I’m going canoeing in the snow.”

But, by the time we reached the launch point and got on our way, the sun was shining. Snow sparkled off the banks and the Lady Spey was kind to us as we drifted downstream, narrowly avoiding rocks and splish-splashing through choppy rapids. When we arrived at our stop-off point for the day, seven miles downstream at the towering Telford Bridge, my arms were aching but canoe buddy Fiona and I had our strokes sorted and were tandeming it up like nobody’s business.

After hauling the canoes and equipment up onto the river bank and dropping our stuff at the cavernous, old rambling hotel, the Craigellachie, it was off to the Balvenie for a guided tour with Andrew himself.

And can I just say: after hours of paddling (especially for someone whose only regular exercise routine involves walking downstairs to buy a pint of milk) a dram of whisky goes a long way to soothing those aching limbs.

We started the tour off in the cooperage, taking in the workroom where the barrels are tested and turned ship-shape and shiny for refilling. Moving on, we explored the snowy grounds where some of the barley is grown for the whisky and then into the first warehouse where the barley is steeped in spring water for two days.

Downstairs in the warehouse sits the malting floor – one of the only ones still used in the whisky world. Here, piles and piles of silky golden barley is allowed to begin the germination process. It’s all hand-turned in a back-breaking manual method before heading off to peat kilns to be air dried and very (VERY) lightly smoked.

Heading over to the mash rooms, we checked out the mash tuns (where water is added to the grist (or milled barley)) and the wort tubs, which were spitting and frothing their way through the fermentation process.

“It’s like a giant student party with loads of alcohol and sex and it keeps reproducing,” quipped Andrew of the fermentation stage.

After taking in the alluring copper stills, we headed over to the “behind the scenes” Warehouse 24, in which is kept some of the most precious Balvenie malts available. We were lucky enough to bottle our own to take home – I chose the 15-yo refill bourbon cask, which sits proudly in its box for a special occasion.


As a newbie to the distillery tour world, this one was absolutely fantastic. Being able to see the fields on which the barley grows, right through to the warehouse where the final whisky is stored, was a privilege and I highly recommend a visit if you find yourself in Grantown-on-Spey anytime soon.

That evening, over drams in the incredible malt bar at the Craigellachie hotel – which features nearly 700 whiskies – and a tasty meal of smoked salmon and fresh tuna nicoise salad, we reflected on the long day, amazed at how much we had fit in.

The next day I woke up with a slight issue – my voice was gone. I was ill. And, I don’t mean “man-flu” ill – I mean, properly, ill. Aching limbs, aching throat, exhaustion – all had decided to claim my body from me and leave me with but a squeak to communicate.

By the time I’d wrapped up in all my layers, I was still freezing – in that state, the last thing I wanted to do was get on an icy river with the potential of falling in. But, get in the canoe I did, attempting to keep positive for at least the beginning part. As the cold soaked in (literally), however, and the river fought back, I floundered. Power had sucked out of my arms and every stroke seemed a huge effort with almost no effect. I’m afraid to say that Miss Whisky got rather stroppy. By the time the rock perched us on edge and threatened to pitch us into the dark waves, I’d nearly given up.

Soon after, we found refuge on a bank and set up an incredible spread of sarnies, cheese, fruit and biscuits. The only thing that could catch my eye, however, was the Pot Noodles and whisky.

This has now become what I term “The Superman Cure”.

A cup of steaming noodles and a few drams of SMWS and Balvenie whisky later, and I was filled with a resurgence of energy – even if I did still sound like a mouse.

I am now, proud to say, I did not give up despite coming near to it. Another two hours of paddling later and we arrived at the sea – none of having tipped ourselves into the river! It was a success all around and as we found the last reserves of strength to lug the heavy canoes up the banks of Speybay to our awaiting transport, I looked out onto the waterway and said my thanks to Lady Spey for keeping me canoebound. A dram was had all around!

Thank you to Dave Craig for the fantastic journey and for putting up with Miss Whisky when she was ill. And to Dr Andrew Forrester for leading a great tour of The Balvenie. For more details on the canoe journeys, visit: www.spiritofthespey.co.uk. To book in for a tour of The Balvenie, visit: www.thebalvenie.com