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Karen Walker

May 17, 2013 in Whisky Women

“I feel proud every day working in an industry that is borne from my home country. It’s an industry that is pure, honest and endearing.” – Karen Walker

 

Karen Walker is the Marketing Director of Scottish Brands for International Beverage, which owns brands like Balblair, Old Pulteney and anCnoc.

She has been involved in the whisky industry for 21 years and in this Whisky Women interview she speaks about her various roles, how things have changed over the past two decades and what whiskies really take her fancy.

 

Tell me about your career in the world of whisky:

I graduated with a degree in Business Studies and Marketing in 1992. As it was during the Gulf War and a UK recession I took the first job that came along, which was in the marketing department of an engineering company. Two years later they closed the Edinburgh office and I was out looking for a job. I was lucky – a role came up as Marketing Executive for Invergordon Distillers and I have never looked back!

I was at Invergordon Distillers for five and a half years and I not only gained invaluable experience in the marketing of Scotch whisky, but a wide variety of other spirit categories – Irish whiskey, Canadian whisky, bourbon, vodka, gin. Then a role came up at Morrison Bowmore Distillers (MBD) as Brands Manager and again, I jumped at it.

The years at MBD were invaluable. I travelled extensively around Europe as Bowmore punched way above its weight in that region at that time (15 years ago now!). Bowmore grew by 100% in the time I was there. Don’t be misled, I was not the only Brands Manager – there were two of us. However to be part of a team that cheered at milestones, celebrated at distributor wins, and joined together to work as a team made me realise there was nowhere else other than the Scotch whisky industry that I wanted to be.

I started with Inver House Distillers as Marketing Manager in 2003 with two Brand Managers and a Marketing Executive, managing the portfolio globally. Inver House Distillers was integrated into InterBev Group, part of the Thai Bev group, and on returning from maternity leave in Oct 2009, having had twins, I became Marketing Director of the Scottish Brands portfolio.

We are now a team of 10 and I am immensely proud of the marketing team and could not be here without them supporting me every day.

What makes you most interested in this spirit?

I feel proud every day working in an industry that is borne from my home country. It’s an industry that is pure, honest and endearing. And of course I love working with people every day that have a true passion for what they do, from the stillmen to the accountants.

What was one of the first whiskies you tried that you really loved?

The Lowlands. At the time I was young and female, obviously, so they were easier for me to enjoy on the palate and not too challenging. I have grown to love anCnoc 16 year old and Old Pulteney 12 year old. And Old Pulteney 21 year old, well, it is quite simply outstanding. But a Balblair for me during the festive period is gorgeous: add together a roaring fire with a happy family around me, an after dinner Balblair in hand, and the world is a great place.

What does your role entail on a day to day basis?

No day in any year is ever the same. We work on an annual calendar so projects come around year by year. This is what keeps every day alive, buzzing, challenging and rewarding.

What is your favourite aspect of what you do?

I love seeing concepts come to shelf, seeing the consumer enjoying something I know came from an idea in our Airdrie office.

I also enjoy developing partnerships worldwide with distributors’ networks where we build the brands in markets that we could not get to without them.

Then there is educating consumers about the nuances of Scotch and how complicated, how simple, yet how enjoyable it can be.

Whisky is increasingly of interest to a younger consumer. As a marketer, are you excited by this potential?

Yes, of course we are all excited about this. However education is still essential. The emerging markets of China, India, Mexico and Brazil are indeed exciting, however we have to ensure we maintain the integrity of Scotch and market our brands responsibly to any younger demographic.

What is your opinion on minimum pricing?

In the industry we have to market our brands responsibly, and in the Scotch whisky industry we do. I do not believe that minimum pricing/regulation is the best way to achieve the common goal of minimising alcohol abuse.

Do you think more women could or should work in the whisky business?

Absolutely. When I started 21 years ago I was a minority, trying hard to carve my way in a company with traditional management structures in place. This was the case in many industries, not just the Scotch whisky industry.

Things have changed now and today eight of the 10 strong team I manage are women, and they are all strong minded, capable, reliable and loyal and I enjoy every day I work with them. We work with men and women across all departments of the organisation and the industry. It is great to see women getting opportunities in senior management roles.

What is one of your most cherished memories involving whisky drinking?

There are many moments and happy memories to recall. Friendships I have made, and stories I have shared while enjoying a dram. Too many to tell in this interview!

 

 

Whisky Women & Int’l Women’s Day: Part 2

March 8, 2013 in Interviews, Whisky Women

Right folks – have you got drams at the ready? Because I have a lot of incredible women to raise a dram to this International Women’s Day.

Earlier in the week, I ran Part 1 of this series, speaking to women in the whisky industry about what whisky inspires them and what woman inspires them.

In Part 2, I speak to a second group of incredibly awe-worthy women.

So, I invite you to sit back with a dram, read through their stories and think of the women in your life that have pushed you to be a better person. If you are keen to share who they are, then you could win a bottle of Bowmore whisky (details of how to do so follow at the end of this post).

And above all else: happy International Women’s Day!

Bowmore Master Blender Rachel BarrieRachel Barrie, Master Blender, Morrison Bowmore Distillers:

I am most inspired by Bowmore’s complex waves of flavour, ebbing and flowing like the tides. One of my latest creations, Bowmore Tempest IV has effervescent waves of citrus and ocean spice, tempered by warm ripples of smooth vanilla and wispy smoke. It’s like being out on a boat in the ocean waves, with bracing sea air, ocean spices and salty drizzle sharpening the senses and clearing the mind. As you get closer to shore, the bright sun breaks through the clouds bringing a satisfying warmth, rewarding you with sun-drenched fruit and vanilla sweetness.

This sensory adventure reflects the passion I feel about life right now, embracing both the storms and the calm. I love taking my glass of Bowmore outside whatever the weather and allowing its wild and magical beauty to unfold. Whether I’m by the sea, a deep loch or at the top of a mountain ….it makes me want to dance in the rain at the height of the storm, then enjoy its soft fruity warmth as the storm passes.

From my time working in the world of whisky, I have been most inspired by the lady who first introduced me to the Sensory Science of whisky, Sheila Burtles. Sheila was the Sensory Scientist at Pentlands Scotch Whisky Research (now The Scotch Whisky Research Institute) when I started there as a Research Scientist in 1991. Like me, Sheila was a trained chemist and had an incredible passion for Scotch whisky flavours. She developed the original Scotch Whisky Flavour Wheel in 1979 alongside Dr James Swan, the world-wide renowned whisky expert, who first employed me as a young chemistry graduate at Pentlands Scotch Whisky Research. She was the first lady to recognise my talents and was my mentor until I left Pentlands in 1995 to join the ‘real’ world of whisky production.

Megan Kenny: Jameson Brand Ambassador:

Jameson Original inspires me – it’s a timeless classic appreciated for its smoothness and mixability that appeals to the tastes of both men and women. As a company Jameson has overcome a lot during its 233 years of production, from wars to Prohibition. Although Ireland is experiencing a massive recession Jameson and Irish Distillers is boasting double-digit growth in many markets. I am inspired by the taste of the whiskey, its history and the company behind it.

And, there are two women in my life who have inspired me.

The first is my grandmother who worked incredibly hard as a nurse to support her five children. She has taught me that through hard work and perseverance women can achieve anything in life.

Secondly is my mother. She’s a massive advocate of female empowerment. It was her decision to send me to a Loreto sister school where the ethos is adopted from the founder Mary Ward that “Women in time will come to do much”. I grew up surrounded by books by Betty Friedan and Simone DeBeauvoir. She recently went back to college to complete a degree in English. She graduated last year with an honours degree from Trinity College Dublin. She has always encouraged me to be the best I can be and not to let anything hold me back. She is also a fan of Irish whiskey, which encouraged me to pursue a career in the whiskey industry.

Allison Patel: Owner – Brenne Whisky & Local Infusions:

Balcones distillery as a whole always evokes some sense of awe, but especially the Brimstone and Rumble Cask Reserve expressions (I know, RCR is not whisky but it deserves recognition).  The complexity of flavors matched with the rich, chewy texture gets me every time. Compass Box is also very inspirational to me – in both the quality of what they create and the creative niche that they carved out for themselves under the very traditional umbrella of the Scotch world.  I am moved by both of these company’s ability to bring innovation into the whisky industry not just for the sake of being different, but to expand upon and further push the envelope of what whisky can be.

For their hard working attitudes, grace under pressure, compassion and showing the world that you can be a strong and have confidence in what you do and who you are without without the presence of an ego, Hillary Clinton and Beyoncé.  For living a full life to the best of one’s ability  and for finding the strength and courage to work through the obstacles and challenges that life throws at you, my grandmothers, mom and sisters.  For their genuine support, knowledge and true passion, I’m greatly and constantly inspired by my whisky sisters!

Femke Sijtsma: Whisky Blogger:

The whisky that inspires me is whisky that’s not available yet – there are upcoming distilleries everywhere, which are confident there is enough room for more variations. These distilleries are willing to take a challenge, a big step. That’s a bit like me: I started a whisky blog, to start an adventure in a world mostly dominated by men. So it’s the whisky being created at this moment, that just can’t wait to be born and that’s something to admire.

The woman who inspires me most is Aletta Jacobs who lived from 1854-1929 in the Netherlands. She was the first Dutch woman to take classes at a university and to complete a medical degree, becoming the first female Dutch doctor. She went to Amsterdam after her PhD to work as a general practitioner and held free consultations, gave courses and introduced the diaphragm for birth control.

Aletta Jacobs is one of the most famous Dutch representatives of the first wave of feminism in history. The fact there had to be a fight for women’s suffrage comes also because of her since the law originally imposed an income limit before you could vote; because she was a doctor, she fulfilled this wage limit, and used her right to vote!

The life of Aletta Jacobs was dedicated to the improvement of the position of women. I’ve got the deepest respect for her strength. She still inspires women to be strong and fight for their rights.

Helen Stewart: UK Brand Manager, SMWS:

Whisky itself is inspirational – whether looking at the industry itself or mulling things over with a dram. But I do love whiskies that surprise you…those that keep you on your toes, that keep you guessing, that challenge preconceptions – the rogues of the whisky world. Those whiskies are inspirational little devils!

Continuing with the ‘shock’ factor, the very first woman to inspire me was British fashion designer Vivanne Westwood. Her ability to design clothing that shaped the 70s punk scene, inspiring a whole generation along with her maverick attitude that set out to ‘put a spoke in the system’. She encouraged people to love art and strongly believed that culture could save the world. She was quite clearly an icon of her time, still managing to juggle marriage, motherhood and a spot of political campaigning.

Rachel MacNeill: Owner: Whisky for Girls:

The whisky that inspires me is Uisge Beatha: the water of life, the nameless whisky of the past, the homemade drams from farm stills. I am inspired by the whisky in a jug that was placed on the dinner table as part of the natural fare of the day, as intrinsic to life as milk from the cow. This whisky was made in places such as Daill Farm and Tallant Farm, in Islay. This whisky of the past inspires me, because I see it as a whisky of the future; I see a future of home distillers crafting private whiskies to share with friends and neighbours.

The woman who inspires me most is Scarlett O’Hara. There are other women whom I admire more, such as Emmeline Pankhurst, Amelia Earhart and Helen Keller. But Scarlett O’Hara inspires me. She is a fictional character created by Margaret Mitchell in the famous American novel, Gone with the Wind. Scarlett has gumption, cheek, passion; she was practical, she took responsibility for people and most importantly she never gave up. She is an eternal optimist; her words, and the last sentence of the book are, ‘After all, tomorrow is another day.’ I just know that Scarlett would have been a whisky drinker!

Kat Presley, Whisky DiscoveryKat Presley: Whisky Blogger:

So far on my whisky journey, Balblair has inspired me. There’s a sense of romance there for me from the way it’s made through to the beautiful location of its distillery.

The story of the current bottle design really captured my attention. The shape of the bottle is that of a large pebble found in the local stream. Then the raised scroll shape is an old Pictish symbol taken from the Clach Biorach standing stone which is close by, and which acted as an Iron Age/Mediaeval sign post telling passers-by what natural resources were abundant in the area. This particular symbol represents an abundance of herbs.

But there’s more to this drink than just drinking it. There’s a magic that brings people together to share their love of their favourite drams and each distillery has wonderful stories to be discovered.

My Thai grandmother inspires me. I was born and raised in Thailand and lived in a 4-bedroom house with running water and electricity, a rarity in the area.

My grandparents didn’t have much growing up. With no education job prospects were limited. To survive and feed their eight children they picked through litter to find plastic bottles, glass and aluminium cans to sell for recycling. From this humble beginning my grandma worked hard and saved up to buy the bit of land that the house I lived in as a child was built. She looked after me when my parents separated when I was a toddler as my mum worked full time.

My grandfather was an alcoholic. When he was drunk he was very unpredictable. I remember I used to hear him smashing things and shouting and swearing at my grandmother, threatening her on occasions.

But with everything my grandmother went through she was never bitter about her past and didn’t let it dictate her life, which is what I find inspirational. It humbles me and grounds me and every time I think I’ve got it hard, I remind myself that she went through far worse to give me the chance of having the life I have now and I am thankful for everything she has done for me and my mum.

Georgie Bell: International Brand Ambassador for the SMWS:

The whisky that inspires me really changes depending on mood. I use whisky as a reference point in time, the flavours help me pinpoint a particular moment: who I was with, what I was feeling etc. I often use these flavours as a form of escape from everyday life. It is incredible when you think of where they arise from – how they slowly develop as the whisky slumbers inside the cask – itself acting as a raconteur relaying its story to you as you take that first sip.  One of our whiskies that really sticks in my mind is 26.77 ‘Church Pews and Hymn Books’ – a 27year old from a refill bourbon cask; the overwhelming perfumed and waxy notes are truly inspirational with beautiful memories of people I’ve shared it with to match.

All the other women in the whisky industry that have been part of my journey over the last three years inspire me: my peers. When I first started at The Society, Annabel Meikle was like a beacon of shining light in between all those green iconic bottles; Laura Hay, who is now working with Pernod Ricard in Australia and Rachel Barrie who was present at one of my first tasting panels. These are but a few of the women who I look up to, who I strive to become – every one going above and beyond to represent our nation’s finest spirit.

*     *     *

Want to win a bottle of Bowmore Small Batch Reserve and a Jo Malone candle? Then email your stories of the women that inspire you to info@misswhisky.com by the 22 March. The most inspiring story will win the whisky & be published on Miss Whisky while a runner up will win a 35cl bottle of Bowmore 12 year old and have their story shared.

Drams of 2012: Part 1

December 27, 2012 in Uncategorized

 

It frightens me to write this post. It really does. How – I wonder – is 2012 almost nearing its end?

The year has gone so quickly and the drams have kept on coming. As such, I thought I’d look back at this year of whisky greatness to choose my favourite drams of the past 12 months.

While most lists put together the top 5 or top 10, I’m going somewhere in between and choosing my top 7 drams.

But the question is, do you agree?

I want to know if you’ve tried these drams (or if you’re keen to) and – if the former – what you thought of them. Did you taste others that beat these ones? Get in touch on Twitter (@themisswhisky), in the Comment section below or on email at info@misswhisky.com – and let me know what drams really rocked your 2012.

Without further adieu, here are my first four favourite drams (in order of when this year I sampled them):

Dram #1. – Midleton Barry Crockett Legacy: 46%:

I managed the chance to try this whiskey twice this year – once at an Irish tasting with The Whisky Exchange back in March, and the second time at a dinner (again with The Whisky Exchange) in September. It really stands out in my mind as a perfect all-rounder and a showcase as to why whisky (or, in this case, whiskey) doesn’t only have to come from Scotland to be dram good.

The first time I sampled it, I said the following:

This was an exceptionally interesting dram to me, especially because it was near the end of the tasting when I find my nose and tastebuds numbing slightly. Notes of citrus fruit, black pepper, lime, crunchy Granny Smith apples, melon and vanilla all managed to communicate themselves from my scent to my brain. The palate was slightly astringent, with notes of pear, apple and pineapple. There was a giant bite at the front of my palate, followed by a long lasting finish with lingering notes of mandarin oranges and brandy at the back of my tongue.”

And the second time I got: “Lemon cookies, almonds, Christmas trees and panettone on the nose and the mouth was all “mango, mango, mango”.

Neither review was exactly the same but, as always with drams, it depends what you’ve eaten and drunk before – all of which will have an effect. The point though? This is a fantastic whiskey and well worth venturing outside the Scottish borders to try.

Dram #2 – The Balvenie, Golden Cask Rum Finish, 14yo: 47.5%:

Continuing the theme of more tropical fruit influenced flavours was this dram I tried at Whisky Live London back in March.

Originally bottled only for travel retail, it came onto market in the UK for general purchase. I’ve tried it a couple of times this year, but this was my original review:

“Aroma: Sunshine in a bottle! If that’s possible. It was warm and inviting, slightly spicy with hints of crème brûlée.

Palate: Loads of tropical fruits flourished: pineapple, banana, mango. Add in flavours of vanilla ice cream and flambeed bananas soaked in caramel and honey and you have dessert in a bottle!”

Dram #3 - Bowmore small batch reserve: 40%:

I tried this dram back in May at (potentially) the perfect moment – when I was hellishly stressed and in need of something delicious to give me a quiet moment of calm.

And it was the ideal antidote to the grumpy feelings I was having – I went from compressed stress ball to smiling, Play-doh putty in moments – whether it’s a good sign that I can become this relaxed from a whisky is something I will debate wholeheartedly at a later date.

But back to the dram…

This whisky was matured in first- and second-fill ex-bourbon casks and was a distinct departure from Bowmore’s other, peatier and sometimes more sherried influences. And, at a mere £32.99 a bottle, it was a steal of a whisky for sure.

This was my review at the time: “The characteristic Bowmore peatiness was there but in an oh so gentle way. There were hints of fudge, vanilla and oak that one would expect from an ex-bourbon cask, but it wasn’t overpowering. It just said, “Hello, you’re feeling stressed aren’t you? Well, why don’t I use my relaxing flavours to eek away your blues!”

For those that like a heavier, sherried Bowmore (like the Darkest) this might seem a bit too gentle. It’s not yelling at you but just presenting itself for enjoyment. The nose is welcoming with grassy, soft sugary notes that would appeal to a beginner, but I think the palate is complex enough with its creamy smoke, hints of lemongrass and saltiness to encourage a longer-term single malt sipper to still enjoy it.

It’s the kind of whisky that, if I had a whole bottle, I’d probably sit down with friends new to whisky and spend the night drinking it all. It was just what I needed to take the edge off!”

Dram #4 – Balblair 1969:

As I wrote at the time, sometimes a dram actually makes time stand still. This was the case with the Balblair 1969 – and it still makes it (possibly) the top of my top drams of the year.

This is what I had to say after trying it at the Balblair Distillery back in July: “This subtle beauty is an absolute stunner. So much so, I actually managed to stop talking for a full 15 minutes. Anything that can make me do that has to be pretty powerful.

This whisky filled my nose with rich, creamy mangoes and papayas, sweet white almond bark (a North American chocolate concoction), apricots and a teeny hint of smoke.

On the palate, everything got even more intense. As I sat with this dram, I was transported to a dreamy, warm meadow in mid-summer. My mouth filled with toasted wheat, honey syrup sticks (another North American confection), the rich flavours that filter from a bakery onto a Parisian street (croissants, pain aux apricots) and the twang of orange bitters. It finished, for me, on a note of nori (edible seaweed) and the sweet hint of smoked salmon.

It was glorious. End of.”

And so ends part one of my “Drams of 2012″ – find out on Monday which other three make the list!

 

Balblair ’96 vs ’97

October 25, 2012 in Uncategorized

What do you get when you compare two whiskies from the same company, which are only separated by a year in vintage?

It would be difficult to do this with most companies, because you don’t know exactly which years are going into their bottlings, only that the minimum age might be 12, 18 or 25 years old.

However, with Balblair, whiskies are released as vintages, meaning if you get a 1997 you know all the whisky in that bottle was put in the cask in 1997.

Recently, I received two samples – one from 1997 and one from 1996. The former is on its second release and has helped increase the company’s core range up to four vintages (a 1975, 1989, 1997 and 2002). The latter has just this week been debuted at the TFWA Global Exhibition in Cannes. It will be available exclusively through travel retail (ie: duty free) and replaces the 1995.

But I was most curious to sit down and puzzle out the differences between these two whiskies, so close in age. Both are unchill-filtered, naturally coloured and bottled at 46%. The 1996 comes from ex-bourbon casks (no notion was given as to what refill they were on), while the 1997 comes from first-fill, ex-bourbon casks.

So what did I think of each?

Balblair 1996:

On the nose of this light, straw coloured whisky I picked up butter, honey and a woodshop. There were also notes of hay and (very randomly I know, but bear with me)  the smell of a cat’s fur, when you pick them up and they’ve been wandering outside in a barn or sat on a haystack. Terribly random, but this just goes to show I’m a farm girl at heart. It didn’t shout at all – instead, this whisky was like a close friend: there was no work there, you could just relax about being in the other’s company.

The palate did surprise however – there was more depth there than I was anticipating as the nose suggested it was going to be quite delicate in the mouth. There was a lot of creaminess, a hint of marzipan, shortbread, lemon, maple syrup and Cheerios. After a few seconds held it moved into an orange peel and quasi bitter Vermouth style note before finally finishing on a cantaloupe and cream note.

It was delightful – and while the nose felt a bit quiet, the palate really impressed for me.

 

Casks at Balblair distillery.

Balblair 1997:

This was a much more sprightly whisky on the nose than the 1996 – while it was slightly darker in colour, it had more springtime zing going on. I picked up fresh cut flowers, strawberries, grass, cedar wood and a bit of ripe banana. It was very appealing and really pulled me right into the tasting glass.

The palate was sweet, sweet and then a bit more sweet. Almonds, bananas, vanilla ice cream, cherry syrup and dessicated coconut made it a banana split in a glass for me. But, surprisingly given how rich the first flavours were, I didn’t get as much of a finish on this one as I did with the 1996. I really wanted it to have a bit more oomph straight through to the end but I didn’t find it exploded on the palate as much as the 1996.

 

And so, what can one say about two whiskies so close in age? It was fascinating to see them side by side and to know that just that year can make a difference. I loved the nose of the 1997 and the palate of the 1996 got me, but both were delicious. As they’re selling for a similar price (the 1996 at £49.99 for a litre bottle and the 1997 at £55 for a 70cl) the only thing you may have to consider is whether you’re going to an airport any time soon as that’s the only place you’ll pick up that 1996.

 

 

Balblair: New Vintages

August 6, 2012 in Uncategorized

Balblair is in the midst of releasing three new whiskies to the market. The 1975 is the second release of this vintage – the only difference is this version was aged in American oak ex-Sherry casks, whereas the first release was aged in Spanish oak ex-Sherry casks.

I was lucky enough to try all three during a recent visit to the distillery in the Highlands, which I wrote about here.

The 1969 was the stunner but, at £1500, it’s not the most affordable whisky on the market. Then again, compare it to some whiskies of this age and that isn’t a ludicrous price tag. While that was my favourite, I was honestly impressed with them all, making Balblair hit the high note once again in my book.

Here are my notes on all three.

Balblair 2002: 46%:

A heady whisky hinting of springtime all through its drammage.

On first sniff, there’s a sugar syrup hit right at the back of the throat. But this mellows to notes of honeysuckle, white flowers (like lilies) and fresh grass.

The mouth was all candy-shop goodness: lollipops, marzipan, icing, sugar syrup dripped over lemon cake and canned peach juice. Wonderfully bountiful in its sweet offerings, this will appeal to lovers of the 2001 vintage, which is also full of almond, fudge and melted sugar flavours.                           

                                     

Balblair 1975: Second release: 46%:

Only seven casks will be released of this vintage, making the £235 price tag slightly more understandable. This whisky is very intriguing, and equally as drinkable.

On the nose, the smell of rubber tires first filtered through. But after the whisky was exposed to the air for a while, I was fully reminded of the smell of fur coats in a vintage shop!

The mouth first burst with sweet herbal notes – thyme & roasted rosemary. Then came roasted lemons, wooden popsicle sticks and how the air tastes after rain has fallen on a dusty road. Lovely!

 

Balblair 1969:

One of the stand out drams of the year for me so far. This subtle beauty is an absolute stunner. So much, I actually managed to stop talking for a full 15 minutes. Anything that can make me do that has to be pretty powerful.

This whisky filled my nose with rich, creamy mangoes and papayas, sweet white almond bark (a North American chocolate concoction), apricots and a teeny hint of smoke.

On the palate, everything got even more intense. As I sat with this dram, I was transported to a dreamy, warm meadow in mid-summer. My mouth filled with toasted wheat, honey syrup sticks (another North American confection), the rich flavours that filter from a bakery onto a Parisian street (croissants, pain aux apricots) and the twang of orange bitters. It finished, for me, on a note of nori (edible seaweed) and the sweet hint of smoked salmon.

It was glorious. End of.

 

 

Balblair: Capturing a Moment in Time

July 24, 2012 in Uncategorized

Every once in a while, I find myself utterly entranced by a whisky. For a magical moment, the room around me goes still, my chattering brain slows and I sit silently in wonderment. It’s rare but, when it happens, it can transport me far away – such is the power of a truly amazing dram.

And so, it was while I sat in the time capsule room at the Balblair distillery that I found myself floating off to a warm meadow in the middle of summer. In my hand sat the brand’s new release, the 1969 vintage.

But it was so much more than whisky in a glass. In it, I found myself listening to the tip-toeing of meadow deer, feeling the gentle depth of summer sunshine heating my cheeks, smelling the bristly, dusty notes of animals and drying wheat. Another sip reminded me of eating liquid honey sticks, the gentle waves of sweetness undulating over my tongue. Then bursts of butter melted on white bread, pain aux apricots and orange bitters created a summer brunch in my mouth before everything finished on a flourish of smoked salmon.

I sat, mesmerised, for a good 15 minutes. When finally I came to, I realised my distillery visiting compatriots had left the room and the table was being set, the staff moving delicately around my hypnotised frame.

It’s those moments that I note down, that I associate with the power of the delicate beauty of this subtle drink.

I had come up to Balblair that morning. An overnight train with 10 journalists ensured there was much whisky drunk before we’d even set foot at the distillery; a breakfast of bacon rolls, paracetamol and drams meant I was soon back in the swing of things.

Balblair is one of those places that make you smile for its loveliness. It’s in its own sphere, hidden on the shores of the Dornoch Firth. It’s so beautiful that director Ken Loach decided to set part of his latest film, The Angels’ Share, there. If you didn’t catch it in cinema, definitely watch the DVD. There’s a reason it won the Jury Award at Cannes this year.

Owned by InterBev subsidiary Inver House Distillers since 1996, Balblair turned the industry standard of age statements on its head in 2001 when it began to only sell vintages. These are named by the year they were made, not by the fact they are 12, 15 or 21 years old. The company tries to release at least one new vintage every year, but says it rules itself by the idea of ‘vintages timed to perfection’ meaning the whisky tells them when it’s ready, not the other way around and doesn’t come out of that cask until master distiller John MacDonald declares it to be done aging.

The day of our visit, John was on hand to take us around the distillery. We were also joined by acclaimed whisky writer and personality, Charlie Mclean, who also appears in the film as a whisky expert. Despite the rainy day, I was keen to wander around the site and learn just what the distillery – which has been on its current site since 1894 – had to offer.


The water for the whisky comes from 4.5 miles away, and is gravity fed to the site. The distillery did floor maltings up until 1975, but now has its malt delivered from Cawdor in Nairn.

Inside, amongst the heady smell of yeasty brew, one finds six wooden washbacks made from Oregon pine, all of which were replaced as new in 2001. To the mash, John said he adds 21 litres of liquid distiller’s yeast that bubbles and spits for a 50 hour fermentation period. Finally, in the still room one finds stocky, wide copper stills that do a three and a half hour distillation.

Balblair has eight warehouses on its site, in which sit a beautiful selection of 26,000 casks, 97% of which are first or second fill bourbon, the other 3% of which are sherry casks made from ex-European and American wood. It’s, most certainly, an alluring sight.

Since John was faced with lots of questions from us nosy journalists, it was refreshing to see him answer our ramblings in a relaxed and honest manner. He is obviously passionate about what he does (which most master distillers tend to be) but he comes with a genuine love of it that would be hard to fake.

When asked how he felt about the company’s reliance on vintages, he said: “It’s not marketing BS. There’s no way I’d put my nose or name out there for something that wasn’t a good whisky. I’m not a good liar.”

Fair play, I thought.

But visiting the site wasn’t the only part of the day. There was also the additional opportunity to do my own hand bottling (!) which visitors can also participate in. I am now the VERY proud owner of bottle number 3 of a 1992 vintage from cask number 74.

After all of the enjoyment of visiting the site, it was time to try some of the whiskies. The company’s current standards (2001, 1989 and 1978) are to be replaced by new vintages from 2002, 1978 and 1969, all of which I review here.

It was a wonderful distillery visit and one that will live in my memory for a long time. Perhaps appropriately, I later learned that from the distillery one can see the Clach Biorach, an ancient standing stone that was “used to mark arrival and passage of special moments in time”. Trying the 1969 vintage was, most definitely, a special moment in my whisky tasting repertoire and made all the more magical by the surrounding significance of history that is a part of this place.

 

An Angelic Whisky Celebration

May 22, 2012 in Uncategorized

“Every whisky has a story. It has to have a narrative arc.”

So said whisky writer Dave Broom last week during a whisky tasting after a screening of Ken Loach’s new film, The Angels’ Share, which premiered to widespread acclaim at Cannes on the 21 May. It tied in perfectly; after all, the film features whisky throughout and its narrative arc will no doubt go down as well with dram lovers as a well storied whisky.

Set in Glasgow, the film follows a group of young offenders (Robbie, Mo, Albert and Rhino) who are attempting to find their way in the world. Each has been convicted of some crime – whether it be the light-hearted intoxication in public done by Albert or the more serious GBH charges for Robbie. The latter, the film’s main character, is let off with community service on the basis that he is trying to change and also because he is about to become a father and wants to be there for his future child.

The film is not what one might expect from Loach, who won the Palme D’or at Cannes in 2006 for Irish civil war film The Wind That Shakes the Barley. His films are normally more gritty – think, 2002′s Sweet Sixteen or the much older film from 1969, Kes. But, like the latter films, Loach sets this one again within the working class confines that many more young people are now facing as the recession continues – unemployment, rough neighbourhoods, crime.

“We wanted to tell a story about this generation of young people, a lot of whom face an empty future,” explains Loach.

So, how does all of this fit in with the world of whisky?

All of the young offenders are given community service, during which they meet the wonderfully sweet and wise social worker Harry (played by John Henshaw). Realising these kids aren’t as bad as society makes them out to be, Harry takes an interest in their development and decides to take them on a day trip to a whisky distillery. There the group learns all about the process in a beautifully shot and wonderfully educational tour. Upon nosing and tasting, Robbie is pronounced as having a good palate, a fact which pushes him to continue his education on whisky. The group also learns about a hugely rare upcoming auction of a long-lost cask of Malt Mill whisky (a distillery which closed in 1962 and for which there are no known bottles). Soon after, they begin formulating a plan to steal the whisky in a comedy-heist which sees the group hitchhike and walk their way to the Balblair Distillery in northern Scotland in order to pull off their scam and make themselves enough money to get out of their undesirable situations. For Robbie, it is a chance to prove to his father-in-law that he will do anything to provide for his new born son Luke and girlfriend Leonie. The ending will bring a wee bit of emotion to even the most staid of viewers.

I won’t give any more away but instead recommend you go and see the film yourself. It is endearing, laugh-out-loud funny and, indeed, still dark in certain places – two full-on violent scenes will make you pause for thought between the giggles.

And best off? Whisky is placed on the big screen in all its glory in a film that will attract thousands of viewers outside of the whisky industry. Whisky expert Charlie Maclean plays a charming role as character Rory McAllister, while shots of distilleries and Scotland will make you swoon.

Just make sure you take a flask with you into the cinema. I recommend the Balblair 1989 to go along with the scenes at the distillery. I had some after the screening for the first time since last autumn’s TWE show and was overcome with love for its spicy, caramel-dipped apple and banana flavours once more.

The Angels’ Share – which has been nominated for this year’s Palme D’or at Cannes – is released in UK cinemas on the 1 June.